Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 16:12:00 -0700
Reply-To: Roland <syncronicity1@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Roland <syncronicity1@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Bit o' stopped Rust
In-Reply-To: <4d1b79350903311259y104de19es849800b1636ee50d@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Guess I might be able to build on Jim's encouraging remarks,
I recently did body work on my other car (the non-Vanagon). Yes, I felt
pretty certain about the sanding and filling, figured that a reasonable
person might have a shot at preping the area with sanding and then filling
in with "play doh", and then sand some more etc. Don't forget to use a
block for block sanding. One trick I might pass on to get the area really
smooth is 2 color primer paint. First you spary the area with a light
colored primer, and then a dark colored primer. If you then sand on this
combination the places that are still high and low really reveal themselves
because you are sanding through 2 different colors. So for example a high
spot will show real quickly since there will be colored rings around it.
The real courage part came with the painting. I bought a gravity feed spray
gun and a matching compressor; it is important to make sure the compressor
can deliver the kind of airflow that the gun needs, so please study the
issues about right sizing the compressor to the gun you choose (for example,
the little ones used for nail guns will not be sufficient for spraying).
And I got the accessories, especially a moisture filter, and a good pressure
gage attached to the gun, extra long hose.
Then I worked with the local auto paint supply store. All they sell is
automotive paints and assorted supplies to go with it. They gave me all the
stuff I needed, it was 2 part paint, a metalic paint with a clear coat on
top. They gave me nice things like tutorial, answer dumb questions, and the
detailed specs on the paints, which for example tell how much reducer
(thinner) to add to the paint/clear coat at different temperatures and
humidity in the garage on a particular day. I also bought some returned or
useless paint that was the same base/brand and similar to my shade for
really cheap dollars that I used to practice. You have to be careful about
the spray gun settings; mine has 3, one for air flow volume, one paint flow
volume, and one for the spray pattern (from a vertical slice to a small
centralize spot). Basically you have to hang a bunch of painters plastic (8
foot wide roll) from the ceiling in your garage, and part of it becomes a
trial area where you adjust the gun and make sure you have it right before
applying to the work.
From there is was mix the paint, 2 coats of metallic (with only 10 minutes
between coats), 2 coats primer after about 1/2 hour of letting the paint
dry. And then you can wet sand and buff the next day as you choose in case
you get orange peel or some odd spots.
Anyway, the equipment totaled about $325 and the special paints, primers,
clearners, thinners, hardener, etc. was about $90. There was probably
another $50 in odds and ends. The point is I was probably looking at
perhaps $1000, $1,500 or maybe $2000 in a body shop, and this method work
suprisingly well. I took my time, and experimented and tried to do it well
rather than fast. Lots of friends were all amazed, but not as much as me,
cause I was quite afraid of trying this stuff, and really pleased that it is
possible for us to do in our garage. And I now have a compressor "for free"
to keep my tires up, and all kinds of other uses. So please try it! You /
we can do this body work and painting ourselves! I need to do the roof of
my Vanagon since the clear coat is flaking aways and have no hesitation. oh
the by the way, my non-Vanagon is a Porsche, not some half-baked secondary
car, meaing that it had to come out good enough.
Roland
|