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Date:         Thu, 2 Apr 2009 15:09:05 -0800
Reply-To:     Doug Noganav <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Doug Noganav <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Subject:      Re: Idle issues...
Comments: To: Marc Perdue <mcperdue@GMAIL.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

You might want to check the idle stabilizer relay behind the right tail lamp. Mine was acting up recently and I cleaned the contacts and it settled right down.

If you remove the rt side tailamp you will see it way in the back, pull the two Phillips screws on the bracket and the lead is long enough that you can hang it out the taillight opening and work on its contacts. A

Another thing to try is if the engine is running abnormally rough after start up and initial driving. Pull over and do a shut down for 10 sec, turn key on, wait a few sec then start again. This will reboot the ECU and you may find it will run perfectly.

I have had several vans which seemed on occasion to require this.

Doug

----- Original Message ----- From: "Marc Perdue" <mcperdue@GMAIL.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 12:46 PM Subject: Idle issues...

> Hi all, > > It's good to be back after a multi-year absence of mostly > good-running, good-funning time with my '87 Westfalia. I've had a > number of idle issues with my van over the years, but replaced the > engine when it threw a rod with a Boston Bob big valve engine several > years ago. I was very sorry to find out this week that Bob had passed > away. His was a rational and informed voice and he was very > forthcoming in sharing information and helping me with various > problems over the years. > > I've had a fairly recent and on-going problem which has taken a new > twist recently. Here is the run-down: > > The problem was initially that the van, an '87 Westy, would run fine > going to work in the AM. After work, it would initially run fine, but > then would start losing power, running rough, and stalling at > stoplights. I'd restart and it work fine for a minute. I had some > time ago replaced the idle stabilizer control module, cleaned and > checked the idle stabilizer valve, replaced the Temp II sensor, > replaced the fuel filter, replaced the gas tank gaskets, replaced the > O2 sensor, and replaced a number of exhaust system parts (they were > leaking). A few weeks ago, I replaced the AFM. Now the van would > sometimes stall when it was cold, but seemed to be running better. > Then one day I was driving to my parents' house, 45 miles away, on a > very rainy day. It lost power as if the engine had just turned off. > I'd turn it back on and it would run for about 10-15 seconds before > losing power again. I happened to have a new fuel pressure regulator > and replaced that, to no avail. > > I had it towed to a non-VW shop where they checked lots of stuff like > grounds, O2 sensor function, spark plugs, and distributor. They fixed > a gas > leak on the passenger side. They said they didn't know what else to > do and suggested I have it towed to a VW shop. On a hunch, I asked > them to set the valve lash to zero, cold, per Boston Bob's > instructions for the big valve engine. It was off. It ran better, > and I was able to drive it home, but the idle is still rough as a cob. > > I'm sort of at a loss as to what to do next, other than replace the > ECU, which I have tested, and which meets specs. > > And festival season is coming up . . . sigh . . . > > Thanks for any light you all can shed on this . . . > Marc Perdue > > PS--Coincidentally, I have an '85 BMW 528e whose radiator broke, and > an '88 BMW 535 IS with electrical issues, and which decided not to > stay running at all anymore, both at the same time. So, I am carless > at the moment . . . Waaahhh.....


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