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Date:         Tue, 7 Apr 2009 23:17:47 -0500
Reply-To:     Tom Hargrave <thargrav@HIWAAY.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Tom Hargrave <thargrav@HIWAAY.NET>
Subject:      Re: Engine Rebuild Questions
Comments: To: Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@MAC.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <A289000D-CAE4-4F32-802D-E0A02A58533E@mac.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250"

1. The pistons may look fine but do they measure fine? Are the ring lands, skirts, etc, etc still in tolerance? In my opinion, Mahle is best.

2. The cam & followers should be replaced as a set. Replace one & you should replace the other.

3. Break-in is usually 500 miles - by then the rings should be worn to the profile of the cylinder walls. I always change my oil & filter after 500 miles because break-in is really a short term very high wear period for the engine and I want to get all of the micro-fine bits of metal out of the engine.

Thanks, Tom Hargrave www.kegkits.com http://www.kegkits.com/JABF/ 256-656-1924

-----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf Of Robert Stewart Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 10:50 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Engine Rebuild Questions

I spoke with Pete from Van Cafe where I am ordering most of the parts and he too suggested replacing the rod bolts thanks for the suggestion.

I a couple more questions...

1. Why is it important to replace the Pistons if they look fine? I understand the rings and other components but why the actual piston?

What brand of pistons is best? I see the several brands: - German made Mahle which are most expensive - QSC from China - Brazilian - What are peoples experience with the 96MM Big Bore Kit from QSC? Worth the extra horsepower or does it create to many problems with heat in the engine and not a long lasting product?

2. If there is no visible wear on the camshaft does that still need to be replaced?

3. What is the proper break in period after a rebuild? I have heard that after driving the van for 500 miles I should change the tranny fluid and oil?

Thanks, Robert Orange County NY

On Apr 7, 2009, at 3:02 PM, Jake de Villiers wrote:

> Replace the rod bolts with the uprated components - they are the > weak point in the 2.1 motor. > > Pretty sure someone already brought this up in this thread... > > On Tue, Apr 7, 2009 at 11:32 AM, Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@mac.com > > wrote: > Just got back from a meeting the rebuilder and we are replacing: > > oil pressure valve > oil pressure relief piston spring > All New Lifters > New AMC Spanish Heads > Wrist Pin Bushings > Cam Shaft - Reground from Van-Cafe > Complete Gaskets Replacement of All seals > Piston Cylinder Kit - From Van Cafe - German Mahle ( does anyone > recommend the 2.2 piston kit from Vanagain or GW?) > Piston Engine Ring Set - Grant Brand > Standard Main Bearing Set > Crank Shaft bearing kit > Rod Bearings - Standard > New Temp Sensor with Lower threshold to keep the engine cooler* - Van > Cafe 80 degree > New Oil Pressure Sensors > > > The rebuilder said all the other parts looked good. > > Indeed he has done these before he said and he realizes the > complicated nature of how torque ratio's and well as the extreme > precision of the tolerances are required. In fact he said he really > dislikes working on all the German engines regardless if it is VW, > Mercedes or BMW. For him hey says they use way to many bolts and misc. > parts to complicate the process. He told me once the parts arrive he > can have it done within 3-4 days. Sound about right? > > Am I missing any other crucial parts to replace? > > He said the crank, stud bolts and other key parts all looked good and > said the engine seems in otherwise good shape for its age. > > Thanks for assistance. > > Rob > NY > > > > > On Apr 6, 2009, at 1:29 PM, Robert Stewart wrote: > > Good Monday to everyone, > > I have a local engine rebuilder working on my 2.1 Automatic engine > which had roughly 250,000 miles on it. > > He informed my heads needed to be replaced. I could clearly see the > space between the two valves having a indentation bridging them and > the surface areas were very badly pitted. > > I planned on purchasing a set of rebuilt heads from Van-Cafe, anyone > think this a good or bad idea? > Anyone used them before? Have any feedback? > > Secondly is there anything regarding the rebuild that is a must to > replace component wise since he has it all apart? > i.e. sleeves, pistons, camshaft etc... > > I am awaiting a final parts list from him now but want to be sure I am > not missing anything. > > Before he rebuilds it he is going to be cleaning all the parts in a > special bath then glass bead blasting the non sensitive parts. > > Also how long should a standard rebuild take? i.e. 7-21 days? or is it > something that can be done in a 40 hour work week? > What kind of price should I expect? > He told me it would be roughly $1500 dollars. > He said he would be check to see if the camshaft needed to be reground > and would check all valves etc. His shop only does rebuilds but of > mostly race car engines and big truck engines so I trust he knows what > he is talking about. He is not a VW guy at all he just knows engines. > I did give him the Bentley just to be safe though. > > Any advice would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Robert > NY > > > > -- > Jake > > 1984 Vanagon GL > 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie" > > Crescent Beach, BC > > www.crescentbeachguitar.com > http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27

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