Date:         Sun, 12 Apr 2009 13:45:32 -0700
Reply-To:     neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         neil N <musomuso@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Trying To Understand Tie rod Adjustments
Comments: To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
In-Reply-To:  <00f101c9bba6$b955e830$6401a8c0@PROSPERITY>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 12:41 PM, Scott Daniel  - Turbovans
<scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> all right .......
> I'm getting what's going on perhaps .......
> Neil for your thinking ........IF there was a 'center line' in the middle of
> the van , that you measured toe from for each front wheel.......
> that would make perfect sense......but there isn't.
>
> the 'physical point' you measure from is .........each front wheel relative
> to the other.


Again, much thanks Scott and Tom

Don Hanson posted about finding the centre of the vehicle itself. But,
I appreciate the further explanation.

Scott:

I get it now!

If L-wheel 0*, R-wheel toe out, physics of steering system and vehicle
motion, "forces" front of vehicle to drive straight, but with a "net
sum" of toe out and steering wheel off center.

Another analogy? Sit in a swivel chair, set hands to above example,
keep hands in position, but turn body? I can see that.

To further complicate things, the repaired worn radius arm hole has a
"new" radius arm with inner nut set to OLD arm nut position. Before
repair, castor likely adjusted to compensate for the damaged (ovaled)
hole and worn bushings. So "new" pre adjusted to castor of old arm,
likely isn't correct.

For s**ts and giggles, I'll adjust the inner nut on that arm back to
where it was (it was off a parts Vanagon) and see if that makes any
difference to RH drift.

Neil.


--
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines