Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 12:49:20 -0700
Reply-To: mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Subject: Re: Westfakia, Poptop, Access, Design
In-Reply-To: <5a099d980904211211v7e5afb9cq9d095b9769691ea6@mail.gmail.com>
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The roof of the sunroof Vanagons is more reinforced than a Westy roof.
The fixed portion has 2 levels, so the sliding part retracts into a
large pocket between them. This means a lower ceiling in the rear area,
so less headroom in the living space
As long as you don't cut the 2 main roof arches, one at the front edge
of the slider door and one at the rear edge, the roof area between is
just roof skin and not of much importance structurally, IMHO. I don't
mean the outer roof skin arches but rather the ones hidden below them
inside the headliner.
I can't visualize what you are proposing but don't cut either of the
main arches unless you are going to replace it with flat steel tubing of
sufficient strength. For example 3 long pieces of 1" square tubing laid
next to each other to make a 1" tall by 3" wide run bridging from one
side of the van to the other exactly where the removed arch was. This
would need to be anchored at the ends by a substantial means to the
metal where the arch end was.
Mark
Neil2 wrote:
> Hi Craig,
>
> I'm unsure what you mean by "Who knew there was a reduction of hdrm in a sr
> van" Please elaborate.
>
> I've read here over and over that tho' simply cutting a hole doesn't leave
> the same integrity as a factory version, I've never read any problems with
> it. I did consider cutting a 1/2 size hole in a Vanagon roof last year.
> (1/2 size = same width but .5 x the factory opening's length). My reasoning
> was that later I could double the hole to the factory size if it proved too
> small AND it would drastically simply the PT install AND it would elim the
> hinged loft issue, albeit at a sacrifice of the kitchen headroom.
>
> Would someone please send me the opening dimensions of a Vanagon Sunroof
> opening?
>
> Unless I'm missing something the load bearing issue is N/A with my
> 'design'. The buckboard I envision would be totally supported by wood
> runners along the roof at the edges and cross 'beams' over the roof just
> ahead of each pillar, which would not touch the roof. This would leave the
> roof simply as it is with the exception of the access hole. The one aspect
> I've not measured/determined is whether a 2x6 would be strong enough in the
> center to support the buckboard, without fracturing. Does anyone have any
> idea how narrow (top to bottom) I can manage to make the 2x6 in the
> centerline of the roof before it is risking a fracture? IINM, the high
> point of the roof is about 3" above the edges and if the 2x6 is cut so it
> doesn't touch the metal that would only leave a couple inches. I need a
> mechanical engineer's input and/or a carpenter's knowledge on this point. I
> suppose an alternate design would be to use metal. This could be lighter
> too. Just weld a platform for the buckboard to sit on and use, as you say,
> 1" angle iron for the beams. The minimal sag could be mitigated by having a
> beam every two feet or so.
>
> One aspect you didn't comment on was my desire to rotate the access hole 90
> deg so it allows me to stand in the kitchen area and also allows a real
> ladder to be used to climb upstairs. Does this pose any problems I'm
> unaware of?
>
> Please/Thanks!
>
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