Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 20:10:30 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Recent Maintenance Accomplished
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
In recent weeks I have had quite a bit of work done on my van. Just
thought I would comment on the work and hopefully some list members will
derive some benefit from my experience. I hired out the work due to lack
of work space and creaking old bones - just ain't as young as I used to
be. I'm fortunate enough to have a good old country boy mechanic who -
while short on Vanagon specific knowledge - is long on general mechanic
experience, and he is willing to allow me to be in the shop with ism
while he works. That is a real blessing, to find one of those. Between
the two of us - the tasks go done with no "Uh-Oh's"
The problems:
1) Leaking Fuel Tank Vent System.
2) Cracked front and rear exhaust collectors
3) Leaking Front Crankshaft Seal
4) Slipping Clutch (from leaking crankshaft seal)
5) CV inspection and lube time - 25,000 miles
6) Front Wheel Bearing lube time. - 25,000 miles
7) Replace shifter lever parts.
Item 1 - The leaking vent was the typical rotted/broken vent pipes on
top of the fuel tank. A kit from a list vendor was acquired and
installed, and now the old Red Brick can hold a full tank without
trickling. Up on a rack, this was a very straight forward job, and only
required and extra pair of hands once. With a little maneuvering, even
that might not have been necessary, but since I was there.........
This task could be reasonably done at home if someone is so motivated
and doesn't suffer from old bones.
Item 2) Cracks that could not be welded necessitated replacement. I
acquired some good used but serviceable ones and with new gaskets got
them installed. They should get me through the remaining life of the
engine.
Item 3) The leaking front crankshaft seal proved to be problematic. It
had been leaking for some time, and was getting much worse, even to the
extent of oiling up the clutch disk and causing it to slip.
The tranny was dropped, and when the mechanic went to touch the seal
with his hand it just popped out. That problem was solved. However,
another problem arose. The new seal didn't fit snugly. It could be
removed by hand. Meaning of course the seal was not right, or the seal
boss in the case was worn. It was decided that the best fix for this at
the time was to use some appropriate sealant and seal that seal. A bead
was laid into the seal boss (where the seal sits) and the seal was
pushed in flush with the surface. I can only hope that this holds up for
the remaining life of the engine - which hopefully will be another
80,000 miles (total 200,000 miles) and even beyond that
A serious issue arose with the discovery that the small, press fit
bushing that holds the felt grease seal in place over the pilot bearing
was missing. Apparently when the flywheel face on the WBX engines are
machined smooth to make ready for a new clutch disk, the machinists
knock those bushings out, and never think of putting another one back
in. This bushing is a crucial part of the assembly of the flywheel to
the crankshaft to hold the felt seal in place so as not to lose the
pilot bearing grease and to prevent clutch disk "dirt" from entering te
bearing. Premature failure of the pilot bearing will result from failing
to ensure that the flywheel bushing is in place. Now oddly enough, VW
does not list this part in the ETKA. There is a picture, but there is
no name given, nor is there a number given. Yet, this is a crucial part.
if you want long life from your pilot bearing. No list vendor that I
know of has them available fro any source. In my case, someone I knew
made one for me.
Item 4) the slipping clutch was precipitated by the oil from the
crankshaft seal getting on the clutch disk and flywheel. It eventualy
saturated the disk, and the slipping disk burned the clutch plate. Bad
news all the way around. A complete clutch assembly was the only real
solution to that problem.
Item 5) I clean, inspect, and lube the CV's every 25,000 miles. That is
my routine. The CV's will last a very long time if serviced and
maintained well. I also inspect the boots on the CV's regularly and
replace any that are damaged. . If any gets a tear, the least bit of
grit that gets in will begin destruction of the CV.
Item 6) Routine cleaning, inspection and re-greasing at 25,000 miles
seems to work for me.
Item 7) Replace the plastic parts of the shifter mechanism up front.
This was accomplished with a kit from the list vendors. The rubber boot
over the shifter was removed, exposing the locking plate. There are two
hole in it, and a mark was made in each with a magic marker. This
ensures proper alignment on re-assembly. The pare tire was dropped, and
that provided access to the cover box over the end of the shifter tube.
The tube was disconnected and the shifter lifter out in the cab of the
vehicle. The ball assembly was dismantled,a nd new parts installed.
Re-installation was the reverse of disassembly.
I will tell you - that repair made a huge difference in the ease of
shifting.
Upcoming items for service or repair are:
1) Replace Power Steering Pump
2) Clean all AC plumbing, install new AC pump, service with Freeze 12.
3) Restore operation of the Tach.
4) Replace Idle Stabilizer Valve and Idle Stabilizer Control
5) Upgrade to EuroSpec H4 lighting.
6) Install Lighting System Relays.
7) Install heater Fan relays.
8) Repair Front and Rear windshield washers.
There are some other "want to's" but I think these will keep me busy for
a while.
Regards,
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver