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Date:   Wed, 6 May 2009 16:16:11 -0400
Reply-To:   Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@MAC.COM>
Sender:   Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:   Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@MAC.COM>
Subject:   Re: Best Practices for Engine Rebuild Break In Process
Comments:   To: Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
In-Reply-To:   <BAY132-DS5FA7CBAA06B68BA2E9351A0660@phx.gbl>
Content-Type:   text/plain; charset=WINDOWS-1252; format=flowed; delsp=yes

Dennis,

RE: "Start off with the same oil that you plan to use." I was planning on running the 15/50 Mobil 1 Synthetic, you think it's

Ok to run that from the first oiling of the engine onward?

I thought that was not to be done.

Also I thought we should only be using the (Mann/Mahle) Oil Filters? I

thought I understood you saying I should use "Mobil 1, Fram Tough guard, > and Purolator Pure One are amongst the most efficient out there." > Where do I find the exact model numbers I should be using?

Little confused and I really can't afford to screw this up.

Thanks your assistance, Robert NY

On May 5, 2009, at 9:17 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:

> There is all sorts of myth regarding engine break in and much of it

> is not > based on anything real. > > 1) All rebuilds will have some junk, dirt, loose carbon particles > etc. maybe > changing the oil after a short run makes sense but most of this > should be > absorbed by the filter. Use a good filter. The Mobil 1, Fram Tough > guard, > and Purolator Pure One are amongst the most efficient out there. The > Purolator seems to have a higher pressure drop. Oil testing has > shown these > to be effective filters supporting 7,500 mile oil changes. > > 2) Start off with the same oil that you plan to use. Even so called

> dino > oils have a lot of anti friction additives. In reality, if there is

> anything > so tight it has to wear in you want the best protection to avoid > galling. > You want some wear, not tear. Do not use a lighter oil than you > normally > would just cause you want something to break in. > > 3) Drive normally. Gently but normal. Letting the engine idle for 10

> minutes > while warming it up isn't helping anything. Remember the pistons > rely on > splash for some oiling. Rev that engine and get the cylinders wet. > Yes, > avoid long full throttle runs until the rings seat but an occasional

> spurt > is a good thing. > > 4) Vary speed while driving. This will help seat the rings and > define the > carbon ridge at the top of the piston. > > 5) Maintain and regularly check the coolant and oil levels. Do not > overfill > the crankcase. 4.5 quarts for oil and filter change is plenty. Mark

> the > dipstick. Make sure the cooling system maintains pressure. Test it! > > After a few thousand miles, have the oil tested. This will also pick

> up > antifreeze leaks at the base of the cylinders or from under the head

> nuts. > > Dennis > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On > Behalf Of > Robert Stewart > Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 6:27 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Best Practices for Engine Rebuild Break In Process > > Hey Everyone, > > My rebuilt engine is going back in the van this week. What are the > best practices to follow when breaking it in? > > My rebuilt engine has rebuilt heads from Van-Cafe and Cofap pistons in > it. > > I was told by one person to change the oil after the first 30 minutes > of running the engine. Then after 500 miles change the oil and filter, > then again at 1,000 before moving from Dino Oil to Synthetic. It was > suggested I use 10w/40 Dino Oil first before moving to Synthetic. > > I just and article from Go-Westy and want to know if people agree with > what they say or have different thoughts. > > http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=860 > > During the first 1000 miles of engine life: > > 1) Allow coolant temperature to come up to normal running temperature > before driving. > 2) Avoid full throttle application. > 3) Do not exceed an engine speed of 4,000 rpm. > 4) Do not use cruise control or maintain a constant engine speed for > more than 10 minutes at a time. > 5) Maximize warm-up cycles; the more times the engine is brought up to > full operating temperature and allowed to cool fully, the better. > > During the first 10,000 miles: > > 1) Monitor oil consumption carefully; check oil at EVERY gasoline > fill- > up. > Note: The distance between the two notches on the dipstick is NOT one > quart. Adding a full quart when oil level is at the bottom notch WILL > result in over-filling, very high oil consumption, and possible engine > damage. > 2) Keep the oil level closer to the lower notch than the upper notch. > 3) Use 20/50 non-synthetic oil (any brand). Do not switch to synthetic > oil until oil consumption has stabilized. > > After 10,000 miles and for the life of the engine: > > 1) Never apply more than ½ throttle before coolant temperature is up > to normal, which is about the middle of the gauge. > 2) Contrary to popular belief, it is NOT good for the coolant > temperature to stay at the low end of the gauge. If you notice your > coolant temperature is not coming up to normal it is cause for alarm— > get it checked out. > 3) Use only the top quality synthetic oil of 15/50-weight. > > About oil consumption: > It is normal for an engine to consume oil. Following the guidelines > above will have a direct effect on how much oil the engine will > consume > —forever. The factory specification from VW is that up to one quart > per 1000 miles is “normal.” The oil capacity of a water boxer is 5 > quarts. These engines have a “wet sump,” and as long as the oil pump > pick-up does not starve for oil, oil pressure in the engine will be > the same regardless of whether there is one quart of oil present or > five; it makes no difference. In general, if no oil has to be added > between oil changes, that is what we consider to be “acceptable.” That > equates to around ½ quart per 1000 miles. That means that at 3500 > miles, the engine will be no more than 2 quarts low. >


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