Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (May 2009, week 1)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Wed, 6 May 2009 15:19:17 -0500
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject:      Re: Recent Maintenance Accomplished
Comments: To: Paul Connelly <vanagonhummingbird@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <fa0982d70905061105kbefe8b7yf1007e00a2818abe@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Last year I installed a new shifter arm at the transmission, along with a few other external parts at that location, and it made a big difference. I did that becasue my tranny locked up at a crucial time ( I was getting ready for an art show, and couldn't back out of the drive way because of the lock up). However, that didn't cure all the ills, but at least I could drive the van. With the tranny part taken care of, it was easy to see there were other problems, one of which was shifting wasn't positive. Never knew quite what to expect in terns of reverse/1st/2nd. gear. I decide the only way to get it all right was along with new rear parts, new front parts were neded to get all fit and clearances within normal operating parameters - then I could adjust things to perfection. I really do hate trying to adjust to any kind of normalcy, old, worn-out parts. You will never get it to work right, no matter what. So, I put in the new kit up front. That solved a whole bunch of problems for me. Now everything was tight from front to back, and final adjustments could be made and the shifter has worked properly and easily ever since.

If you have over 150,000 miles on the van, and the plastics in the shifter have never been replaced, it would be well worth your while to do it. There is one thing that should be noted. Inside the cover box for the front end shifter rod assembly - there are two pieces that control where the end of the shifter rod locks into to make the shifter arm on the tranny move in the right direction to change the gears inside the tranny. If these two pieces are worn, you still may have shifter problems. When you go about installing the new plastic pieces, you will have to remove the shifter rod cover - which is above the spare tire. Turn the cover over, and note these two little pieces on the side walls inside. One is made of a heavier piece of metal and is attached by screws. So it is evident that this piece is intended to be replaced when worn. If it is worn. replace it while you have the cover removed. It is an easy fix and will make shifting even more positive.

Regards,

John

Paul Connelly wrote: > Hi John, > > Thanks for your comments. One in particular interested me - the shifter kit. > > Over the last few years the shifter in Hummingbird has gotten worse and she > is now very tricky to drive unless you know her well, and even then I can > make a mistake occasionally! > > I have looked at all of the joints and the "box" under the shifter lever, > but all seem in reasonably good shape. The shifting at the actual gearbox > lever is still tight, so I know that its the long shifter mechanism, but I > assumed that it was just a build up of slight play at each point. Is there a > way to decide if that front kit is what is needed? > > Cheers, > > Paul Connelly > '86 Vanagon Syncro Westy (Hummingbird) > > On Tue, May 5, 2009 at 7:10 PM, John Rodgers <inua@charter.net> wrote: > > >> In recent weeks I have had quite a bit of work done on my van. Just >> thought I would comment on the work and hopefully some list members will >> derive some benefit from my experience. I hired out the work due to lack >> of work space and creaking old bones - just ain't as young as I used to >> be. I'm fortunate enough to have a good old country boy mechanic who - >> while short on Vanagon specific knowledge - is long on general mechanic >> experience, and he is willing to allow me to be in the shop with ism >> while he works. That is a real blessing, to find one of those. Between >> the two of us - the tasks go done with no "Uh-Oh's" >> >> The problems: >> >> 1) Leaking Fuel Tank Vent System. >> 2) Cracked front and rear exhaust collectors >> 3) Leaking Front Crankshaft Seal >> 4) Slipping Clutch (from leaking crankshaft seal) >> 5) CV inspection and lube time - 25,000 miles >> 6) Front Wheel Bearing lube time. - 25,000 miles >> 7) Replace shifter lever parts. >> >> Item 1 - The leaking vent was the typical rotted/broken vent pipes on >> top of the fuel tank. A kit from a list vendor was acquired and >> installed, and now the old Red Brick can hold a full tank without >> trickling. Up on a rack, this was a very straight forward job, and only >> required and extra pair of hands once. With a little maneuvering, even >> that might not have been necessary, but since I was there......... >> >> This task could be reasonably done at home if someone is so motivated >> and doesn't suffer from old bones. >> >> Item 2) Cracks that could not be welded necessitated replacement. I >> acquired some good used but serviceable ones and with new gaskets got >> them installed. They should get me through the remaining life of the >> engine. >> >> Item 3) The leaking front crankshaft seal proved to be problematic. It >> had been leaking for some time, and was getting much worse, even to the >> extent of oiling up the clutch disk and causing it to slip. >> >> The tranny was dropped, and when the mechanic went to touch the seal >> with his hand it just popped out. That problem was solved. However, >> another problem arose. The new seal didn't fit snugly. It could be >> removed by hand. Meaning of course the seal was not right, or the seal >> boss in the case was worn. It was decided that the best fix for this at >> the time was to use some appropriate sealant and seal that seal. A bead >> was laid into the seal boss (where the seal sits) and the seal was >> pushed in flush with the surface. I can only hope that this holds up for >> the remaining life of the engine - which hopefully will be another >> 80,000 miles (total 200,000 miles) and even beyond that >> >> A serious issue arose with the discovery that the small, press fit >> bushing that holds the felt grease seal in place over the pilot bearing >> was missing. Apparently when the flywheel face on the WBX engines are >> machined smooth to make ready for a new clutch disk, the machinists >> knock those bushings out, and never think of putting another one back >> in. This bushing is a crucial part of the assembly of the flywheel to >> the crankshaft to hold the felt seal in place so as not to lose the >> pilot bearing grease and to prevent clutch disk "dirt" from entering te >> bearing. Premature failure of the pilot bearing will result from failing >> to ensure that the flywheel bushing is in place. Now oddly enough, VW >> does not list this part in the ETKA. There is a picture, but there is >> no name given, nor is there a number given. Yet, this is a crucial part. >> if you want long life from your pilot bearing. No list vendor that I >> know of has them available fro any source. In my case, someone I knew >> made one for me. >> >> Item 4) the slipping clutch was precipitated by the oil from the >> crankshaft seal getting on the clutch disk and flywheel. It eventualy >> saturated the disk, and the slipping disk burned the clutch plate. Bad >> news all the way around. A complete clutch assembly was the only real >> solution to that problem. >> >> Item 5) I clean, inspect, and lube the CV's every 25,000 miles. That is >> my routine. The CV's will last a very long time if serviced and >> maintained well. I also inspect the boots on the CV's regularly and >> replace any that are damaged. . If any gets a tear, the least bit of >> grit that gets in will begin destruction of the CV. >> >> Item 6) Routine cleaning, inspection and re-greasing at 25,000 miles >> seems to work for me. >> >> Item 7) Replace the plastic parts of the shifter mechanism up front. >> This was accomplished with a kit from the list vendors. The rubber boot >> over the shifter was removed, exposing the locking plate. There are two >> hole in it, and a mark was made in each with a magic marker. This >> ensures proper alignment on re-assembly. The pare tire was dropped, and >> that provided access to the cover box over the end of the shifter tube. >> The tube was disconnected and the shifter lifter out in the cab of the >> vehicle. The ball assembly was dismantled,a nd new parts installed. >> Re-installation was the reverse of disassembly. >> >> I will tell you - that repair made a huge difference in the ease of >> shifting. >> >> Upcoming items for service or repair are: >> >> 1) Replace Power Steering Pump >> 2) Clean all AC plumbing, install new AC pump, service with Freeze 12. >> 3) Restore operation of the Tach. >> 4) Replace Idle Stabilizer Valve and Idle Stabilizer Control >> 5) Upgrade to EuroSpec H4 lighting. >> 6) Install Lighting System Relays. >> 7) Install heater Fan relays. >> 8) Repair Front and Rear windshield washers. >> >> There are some other "want to's" but I think these will keep me busy for >> a while. >> >> Regards, >> >> John Rodgers >> 88 GL Driver >> >> > > >


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.