Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 13:29:34 -0700
Reply-To: Doug Noganav <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Doug Noganav <vanagon@ASTOUND.NET>
Subject: Re: Best Practices for Engine Rebuild Break In Process
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
I thought "non detergent" oil was important during break in (first 1000 mi)
to allow the rings to seat by the way.
Having rebuilt many many vw engines in my lifetime including water boxers, I
still maintain that they do just fine with standard type oils of 20-50
grade. In this man's opinion paying 8 bucks a quart is a waste of money on
the waterboxer. If you do run Syns be sure to run the higher grade not the
5-10 wt oils.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Stewart" <robertmstewart@MAC.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 1:16 PM
Subject: Re: Best Practices for Engine Rebuild Break In Process
Dennis,
RE: "Start off with the same oil that you plan to use."
I was planning on running the 15/50 Mobil 1 Synthetic, you think it's
Ok to run that from the first oiling of the engine onward?
I thought that was not to be done.
Also I thought we should only be using the (Mann/Mahle) Oil Filters? I
thought I understood you saying I should use "Mobil 1, Fram Tough guard,
> and Purolator Pure One are amongst the most efficient out there."
> Where do I find the exact model numbers I should be using?
Little confused and I really can't afford to screw this up.
Thanks your assistance,
Robert
NY
On May 5, 2009, at 9:17 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
> There is all sorts of myth regarding engine break in and much of it
> is not
> based on anything real.
>
> 1) All rebuilds will have some junk, dirt, loose carbon particles
> etc. maybe
> changing the oil after a short run makes sense but most of this
> should be
> absorbed by the filter. Use a good filter. The Mobil 1, Fram Tough
> guard,
> and Purolator Pure One are amongst the most efficient out there. The
> Purolator seems to have a higher pressure drop. Oil testing has
> shown these
> to be effective filters supporting 7,500 mile oil changes.
>
> 2) Start off with the same oil that you plan to use. Even so called
> dino
> oils have a lot of anti friction additives. In reality, if there is
> anything
> so tight it has to wear in you want the best protection to avoid
> galling.
> You want some wear, not tear. Do not use a lighter oil than you
> normally
> would just cause you want something to break in.
>
> 3) Drive normally. Gently but normal. Letting the engine idle for 10
> minutes
> while warming it up isn't helping anything. Remember the pistons
> rely on
> splash for some oiling. Rev that engine and get the cylinders wet.
> Yes,
> avoid long full throttle runs until the rings seat but an occasional
> spurt
> is a good thing.
>
> 4) Vary speed while driving. This will help seat the rings and
> define the
> carbon ridge at the top of the piston.
>
> 5) Maintain and regularly check the coolant and oil levels. Do not
> overfill
> the crankcase. 4.5 quarts for oil and filter change is plenty. Mark
> the
> dipstick. Make sure the cooling system maintains pressure. Test it!
>
> After a few thousand miles, have the oil tested. This will also pick
> up
> antifreeze leaks at the base of the cylinders or from under the head
> nuts.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
> Behalf Of
> Robert Stewart
> Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 6:27 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Best Practices for Engine Rebuild Break In Process
>
> Hey Everyone,
>
> My rebuilt engine is going back in the van this week. What are the
> best practices to follow when breaking it in?
>
> My rebuilt engine has rebuilt heads from Van-Cafe and Cofap pistons in
> it.
>
> I was told by one person to change the oil after the first 30 minutes
> of running the engine. Then after 500 miles change the oil and filter,
> then again at 1,000 before moving from Dino Oil to Synthetic. It was
> suggested I use 10w/40 Dino Oil first before moving to Synthetic.
>
> I just and article from Go-Westy and want to know if people agree with
> what they say or have different thoughts.
>
> http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=860
>
> During the first 1000 miles of engine life:
>
> 1) Allow coolant temperature to come up to normal running temperature
> before driving.
> 2) Avoid full throttle application.
> 3) Do not exceed an engine speed of 4,000 rpm.
> 4) Do not use cruise control or maintain a constant engine speed for
> more than 10 minutes at a time.
> 5) Maximize warm-up cycles; the more times the engine is brought up to
> full operating temperature and allowed to cool fully, the better.
>
> During the first 10,000 miles:
>
> 1) Monitor oil consumption carefully; check oil at EVERY gasoline
> fill-
> up.
> Note: The distance between the two notches on the dipstick is NOT one
> quart. Adding a full quart when oil level is at the bottom notch WILL
> result in over-filling, very high oil consumption, and possible engine
> damage.
> 2) Keep the oil level closer to the lower notch than the upper notch.
> 3) Use 20/50 non-synthetic oil (any brand). Do not switch to synthetic
> oil until oil consumption has stabilized.
>
> After 10,000 miles and for the life of the engine:
>
> 1) Never apply more than ½ throttle before coolant temperature is up
> to normal, which is about the middle of the gauge.
> 2) Contrary to popular belief, it is NOT good for the coolant
> temperature to stay at the low end of the gauge. If you notice your
> coolant temperature is not coming up to normal it is cause for alarm—
> get it checked out.
> 3) Use only the top quality synthetic oil of 15/50-weight.
>
> About oil consumption:
> It is normal for an engine to consume oil. Following the guidelines
> above will have a direct effect on how much oil the engine will
> consume
> —forever. The factory specification from VW is that up to one quart
> per 1000 miles is “normal.” The oil capacity of a water boxer is 5
> quarts. These engines have a “wet sump,” and as long as the oil pump
> pick-up does not starve for oil, oil pressure in the engine will be
> the same regardless of whether there is one quart of oil present or
> five; it makes no difference. In general, if no oil has to be added
> between oil changes, that is what we consider to be “acceptable.” That
> equates to around ½ quart per 1000 miles. That means that at 3500
> miles, the engine will be no more than 2 quarts low.
>
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