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Date:         Wed, 13 May 2009 17:30:12 -0600
Reply-To:     Paul Connelly <vanagonhummingbird@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Paul Connelly <vanagonhummingbird@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Shifter Problem
Comments: To: Don Hundt <dhundt@bendbroadband.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Hi All,

Just for the record - after dismantling the bushings and ball joint assembly on the gear shifter, for some reason the whole assembly had slipped down the interior casing plate that sits under the gaiter at the base of the shifter. I didn't realize that there was nothing to prevent that movement. Just for future reference if anyone else has this issue you should be able to just push the whole assembly up from below after removing the shifter box from underneath. Basically that was the only change that I saw after I had it dismantled.

I think perhaps just a lot of washboard roads gradually let it slip down.

Cheers,

Paul Connelly '86 Vanagon Syncro Westy (Hummingbird)

On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 3:23 PM, Paul Connelly <vanagonhummingbird@gmail.com > wrote:

> Hey Don/All, > > Thanks for your advice. I did the Bentley adjustments you suggested today, > and although I haven't taken it out for a spin yet, looking at the shift > mechanism housing I see what would appear to be the source of the problem... > > The shift rod end does not make contact with the reverse lock out strip or > the 1st 2nd - 3rd 4th separator plates! Checking the upward play on the > bottom of the shift lever - there is only a couple of mm and even when I > push the lever up to the "stop" it is still a mm or so shy of the separator > plates. I will disassemble the whole thing now and see if there is enough > play in the ball and bushings etc. to account for this, but I don't see > there being enough to bring it up the amount that it would need to to be say > in the "middle" of the separator plates. > > Thoughts anyone? > > Paul Connelly > '86 Vanagon Syncro Westy (Hummingbird) > > On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 12:17 PM, Don Hundt <dhundt@bendbroadband.com>wrote: > >> If everything feels tight and your bushings and tranny link are in good >> shape, try adjusting your linkage and shifter per Bentley manual before >> spending any money. You may be pleasantly surprised. >> Don >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Connelly" < >> vanagonhummingbird@GMAIL.COM> >> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> >> Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 2:05 PM >> Subject: Re: Recent Maintenance Accomplished >> >> >> Hi John, >>> >>> Thanks for your comments. One in particular interested me - the shifter >>> kit. >>> >>> Over the last few years the shifter in Hummingbird has gotten worse and >>> she >>> is now very tricky to drive unless you know her well, and even then I can >>> make a mistake occasionally! >>> >>> I have looked at all of the joints and the "box" under the shifter lever, >>> but all seem in reasonably good shape. The shifting at the actual gearbox >>> lever is still tight, so I know that its the long shifter mechanism, but >>> I >>> assumed that it was just a build up of slight play at each point. Is >>> there a >>> way to decide if that front kit is what is needed? >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Paul Connelly >>> '86 Vanagon Syncro Westy (Hummingbird) >>> >>> On Tue, May 5, 2009 at 7:10 PM, John Rodgers <inua@charter.net> wrote: >>> >>> In recent weeks I have had quite a bit of work done on my van. Just >>>> thought I would comment on the work and hopefully some list members will >>>> derive some benefit from my experience. I hired out the work due to lack >>>> of work space and creaking old bones - just ain't as young as I used to >>>> be. I'm fortunate enough to have a good old country boy mechanic who - >>>> while short on Vanagon specific knowledge - is long on general mechanic >>>> experience, and he is willing to allow me to be in the shop with ism >>>> while he works. That is a real blessing, to find one of those. Between >>>> the two of us - the tasks go done with no "Uh-Oh's" >>>> >>>> The problems: >>>> >>>> 1) Leaking Fuel Tank Vent System. >>>> 2) Cracked front and rear exhaust collectors >>>> 3) Leaking Front Crankshaft Seal >>>> 4) Slipping Clutch (from leaking crankshaft seal) >>>> 5) CV inspection and lube time - 25,000 miles >>>> 6) Front Wheel Bearing lube time. - 25,000 miles >>>> 7) Replace shifter lever parts. >>>> >>>> Item 1 - The leaking vent was the typical rotted/broken vent pipes on >>>> top of the fuel tank. A kit from a list vendor was acquired and >>>> installed, and now the old Red Brick can hold a full tank without >>>> trickling. Up on a rack, this was a very straight forward job, and only >>>> required and extra pair of hands once. With a little maneuvering, even >>>> that might not have been necessary, but since I was there......... >>>> >>>> This task could be reasonably done at home if someone is so motivated >>>> and doesn't suffer from old bones. >>>> >>>> Item 2) Cracks that could not be welded necessitated replacement. I >>>> acquired some good used but serviceable ones and with new gaskets got >>>> them installed. They should get me through the remaining life of the >>>> engine. >>>> >>>> Item 3) The leaking front crankshaft seal proved to be problematic. It >>>> had been leaking for some time, and was getting much worse, even to the >>>> extent of oiling up the clutch disk and causing it to slip. >>>> >>>> The tranny was dropped, and when the mechanic went to touch the seal >>>> with his hand it just popped out. That problem was solved. However, >>>> another problem arose. The new seal didn't fit snugly. It could be >>>> removed by hand. Meaning of course the seal was not right, or the seal >>>> boss in the case was worn. It was decided that the best fix for this at >>>> the time was to use some appropriate sealant and seal that seal. A bead >>>> was laid into the seal boss (where the seal sits) and the seal was >>>> pushed in flush with the surface. I can only hope that this holds up for >>>> the remaining life of the engine - which hopefully will be another >>>> 80,000 miles (total 200,000 miles) and even beyond that >>>> >>>> A serious issue arose with the discovery that the small, press fit >>>> bushing that holds the felt grease seal in place over the pilot bearing >>>> was missing. Apparently when the flywheel face on the WBX engines are >>>> machined smooth to make ready for a new clutch disk, the machinists >>>> knock those bushings out, and never think of putting another one back >>>> in. This bushing is a crucial part of the assembly of the flywheel to >>>> the crankshaft to hold the felt seal in place so as not to lose the >>>> pilot bearing grease and to prevent clutch disk "dirt" from entering te >>>> bearing. Premature failure of the pilot bearing will result from failing >>>> to ensure that the flywheel bushing is in place. Now oddly enough, VW >>>> does not list this part in the ETKA. There is a picture, but there is >>>> no name given, nor is there a number given. Yet, this is a crucial part. >>>> if you want long life from your pilot bearing. No list vendor that I >>>> know of has them available fro any source. In my case, someone I knew >>>> made one for me. >>>> >>>> Item 4) the slipping clutch was precipitated by the oil from the >>>> crankshaft seal getting on the clutch disk and flywheel. It eventualy >>>> saturated the disk, and the slipping disk burned the clutch plate. Bad >>>> news all the way around. A complete clutch assembly was the only real >>>> solution to that problem. >>>> >>>> Item 5) I clean, inspect, and lube the CV's every 25,000 miles. That is >>>> my routine. The CV's will last a very long time if serviced and >>>> maintained well. I also inspect the boots on the CV's regularly and >>>> replace any that are damaged. . If any gets a tear, the least bit of >>>> grit that gets in will begin destruction of the CV. >>>> >>>> Item 6) Routine cleaning, inspection and re-greasing at 25,000 miles >>>> seems to work for me. >>>> >>>> Item 7) Replace the plastic parts of the shifter mechanism up front. >>>> This was accomplished with a kit from the list vendors. The rubber boot >>>> over the shifter was removed, exposing the locking plate. There are two >>>> hole in it, and a mark was made in each with a magic marker. This >>>> ensures proper alignment on re-assembly. The pare tire was dropped, and >>>> that provided access to the cover box over the end of the shifter tube. >>>> The tube was disconnected and the shifter lifter out in the cab of the >>>> vehicle. The ball assembly was dismantled,a nd new parts installed. >>>> Re-installation was the reverse of disassembly. >>>> >>>> I will tell you - that repair made a huge difference in the ease of >>>> shifting. >>>> >>>> Upcoming items for service or repair are: >>>> >>>> 1) Replace Power Steering Pump >>>> 2) Clean all AC plumbing, install new AC pump, service with Freeze 12. >>>> 3) Restore operation of the Tach. >>>> 4) Replace Idle Stabilizer Valve and Idle Stabilizer Control >>>> 5) Upgrade to EuroSpec H4 lighting. >>>> 6) Install Lighting System Relays. >>>> 7) Install heater Fan relays. >>>> 8) Repair Front and Rear windshield washers. >>>> >>>> There are some other "want to's" but I think these will keep me busy for >>>> a while. >>>> >>>> Regards, >>>> >>>> John Rodgers >>>> 88 GL Driver >>>> >>>> >>> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus >>> signature database 4056 (20090506) __________ >>> >>> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. >>> >>> http://www.eset.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >


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