Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 07:09:06 EDT
Reply-To: RAlanen@AOL.COM
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Frank Condelli <RAlanen@AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Advice needed for replacing front and rear header pipes and
hardware
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
In a message dated 15/05/2009 11:03:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
Jeff, to remove the hardware that is there is the hard part for sure and
there is no one ultimate way. If the threads of the bolts or studs are
seized in the aluminium then you may never get them out no matter what trick
you try. At that point the only solution is to cut off the bolt or stud
flush with the surface of the head then drill and tap a new hole which may
sometimes lead to enlarging the hole then you will need to insert Heilicols to
bring back the hole to the 8mm thread size. I sometime like to drill out
all the holes and insert Helicoils in all of them. This makes a better
longer lasting repair but of course not all customers are willing to pay for
such shop time. Getting them out, if you can remove the headers first then it
will be easier to work. On the studs with nuts, the nuts can be cut off
so the headers can be removed. On the bolts if they do not turn cut the
pipe off flush with the flange then work on the bolt removal, if the bolt
breaks then remove the flange and use vise grips on the remaining part of the
bolt. Heat from an acetylene torch or yellow propane is helpful. Shock to
the bolt or stud with a hammer and or hammer and drift is helpful. Shock
tapping the area of the head around the bolt/stud is helpful. Penetrating
oil, the best money can by, is helpful. Wax introduced on the hot threads
is helpful. BUT, as I said before you may not win them all and drilling
and tapping is the next step. This will NOT be easy especially at the rear
two ports. You may need to lower the engine to get to them. ALL I can say
further is GOOD LUCK. I've been doing this for years and have encountered
every scenario imaginable and some of them were not pretty and the cu
stomers bill was big !
Now, to the install. I highly recommend using Stainless Steel 8x35mm
bolts is all positions, NO STUDS. I have a kit I sell with all the
hardware and gaskets needed. From my _Vanagon New Parts_
(http://frankcondelli.com/sales.htm) webpage > Gasket & hardware kit for header pipes & collector
- $39.95 And of course I highly recommend installing my Stainless Steel
exhaust system as this will insure you do not have to EVER fool around with
this project again. See my _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_
(http://frankcondelli.com/exhaust.htm) webpage. See also my _Vanagon Exhaust
System Install_ (http://frankcondelli.com/install.htm) webpage.
>>>>>Hi, The bolts (I think they are hex head cap screws and not studs with
nuts) that attach my front and rear header pipes on my 86 - 2.1
vanagon to the engine look very corroded. It is time to replace that
portion of my exhaust system. Is there an archive perhaps even with
pictures and instructions of what I am going to need to do to remove
the hardware, and replace it with something that is easier to get out
next time? I understand this is going to be long, knuckle crushing
process, because my local repair shop really does not want to touch
it. The pipes are still intact, but I have been avoiding this like
the plague. I could use a very dumbed-down description if anyone can
help me with that.<<<<<<<<<
Cheers,
Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
(http://frankcondelli.com/trainsal.htm) )
_Frank Condelli & Associates_ (http://frankcondelli.com/busindex.html) -
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
_Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_
(http://frankcondelli.com/exhaust.htm)
_BusFusion_ (http://www.busfusion.com/bfhome.htm) a VW Camper camping
event, Almonte, ON, June 11 ~ 14, 2009
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