Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 15:59:07 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: 2.1 ring recommendations
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reply-type=response
if the main goal is to replace the black o-rings at the bottom of the
cylinder barrels.....
those can be replaced without taking the pistons out of the cylinders
.......
and even without removing the pistons & barrels from the rods.
I've done it.
the black o-rings will stretch enough to to fit over the cylinder barrel.
you do have to lift the barrel up some ........just be careful it's not
enough to pull the barrel off the piston .
if it's only 30K miles on a rebuild......
and the cylidner walls look very nice. I would be inclined to not disturb
the pistons and rings at all. Like don't remove the pistons from the
barrels.
The pistons and barrels hardly wear, seems to me.
Scott
www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Wilford" <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: 2.1 ring recommendations
> Brendan, I would say if you are going to pull the cylinders and change
> the lower o-rings then putting in a new set of rings would be not much
> extra work. If you want as close to OE as you can get then the Goetz
> rings are the way to go. However they are not cheap. They usually run
> around $75 for a set. The other options is a set of Grant rings. These
> are made here in the USA and Grant has been making rings since around
> the time of the model T Ford. These rings are much cheaper. They are
> $39 for a set and the quality is very good. If you want to purchase a
> set through us we would appreciate it. Right now I am out of the office
> until Monday but I could get them out for you then if you wanted.
>
> Usually I don't touch the lower o-ring, but since you had a problem
> already with a pinched o-ring I would say it is a good idea. Then hone
> the cylinder walls lightly while bathing them in ATF (Dexron). Clean
> the pistons and ring grooves with a broken piece of old ring. When you
> put the new rings on bathe the pistons and ring lands in oil so that
> when you start the engine for the first time after doing this job
> everything has some lube on it. I usually use 10-40 oil for a ring
> break in. Run the van for 30 mins, be sure your coolant is bled and
> your radiator fan is cycling on and off. Then drain the oil and change
> the oil and filter. Run for another 500 miles and change the oil
> again. One more time at a 1000 miles and then you should be good for
> the 3000 mile oil change.
> Send the heads out to a machine shop to have the valves checked and a
> valve job completed. They will also clean the heads for you. Let me
> know if you need any more information.
>
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com
>
>
> Brendan Slevin wrote:
>> Does anyone have advice on which rings to use on a 2.1 wbx? I just got
>> my
>> free 2.1's heads off and found some cross hatching still in the
>> cylinders,
>> no pitting on the sealing surface of the AMC heads (they look brand new),
>> but a bunch of flaky carbon on the heads and piston tops. It looks like
>> a
>> very well taken care of motor, the water jacket and head studs show ZERO
>> signs of corrosion. I was told it had a rebuild 30k ago, and everything
>> looks great, should I go ahead and re ring it? I found the tiny tear in
>> the
>> green o-ring on cyl 1 that was causing the problem that made to PO swap
>> in a
>> WRX Subie. With that in mind, I'll be replacing the lower o-rings as
>> well,
>> so I feel like a re-ring wouldn't be any extra work.
>>
>> Thanks everyone!
>>
>> Brendan Slevin
>>
>>
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