Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 17:52:21 -0400
Reply-To: David O'Bryan <dnd.obryan@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: David O'Bryan <dnd.obryan@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Another Burning Van!
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
I installed one of these as a battery disconnect.
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=740&catid=14
I bought longer battery cables and ran the ground connection from the
battery through it. I mounted the switch on the side panel next to the
passenger seat belt mount with the switch handle inside and the body with
contacts on the outside under the vehicle. I will install a second one when
I install the auxiliary battery.
I intend to post pics on Samba when I get the time.
I get a lot of piece of mind knowing I can shut down the electrical system
in an instant if I need to. (It's also nice to use when I'm working on
something on the electrical system). I've had one catastrophic engine fire
(yes, I had new fuel lines) and the sight of sparking wires reigniting the
fire as I tried to put it out is not one I care to repeat.
YMMV.
Regards,
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25
Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 13:13:02 -0700
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Another Burning Van!
re
I imagine a marine type switch would suffice? Likely 2 if one using an
aux. battery?
To simplify things, could one install it at ground strap(s) to battery(s)?
Some boats have fancy battery switches that have one big knob, and positions
for Batt A, Batt B, Both, and both disconnnected.
You could put one of those in a vanagon I suppoose.
Far simplier is just one battery cut off switch for each battery........
and you only have to be careful about one thing ......make sure at least one
of the batteries is connected at all times, or all times the engine is
running . ( running an alternator without a battery connected to it can harm
the alternator ...so always make sure an alternator has a battery to charge
if its running )
I have put battery cutoff swithes in either the positive cables, or the
ground ones .....both ways seem to work just fine.
I also like the ability to use the aux battery for starting, in case the
starting battery is drained or whatever......
with a two battery switch system, that's hyper easy to do. Most common
battery isolator or separator switches won't allow that easily ......
unless you use jumper cables to jump start yourself from your aux. battery.
scott
When I think back to my first days with my '81 air cooled engine, I
shudder to think I drove it any distance at all with the fuel lines
that were in place. Had it checked out by a reputable shop before
purchase, but no mention of fuel line quality. Though in hindisight
the lines weren't cracking, they did have what appeared to be the
original crimped type connectors on hoses to FI's. I can only assume
they were original. Thanks to this list, I did the job.
Fast forward to what I've learned since then, if I ever get another
Vanagon, unless I am *certain* job was done recently by a quality
shop, first job, replace FI hoses.
As for the owner doing the work, and increasing odds of a leak, I
totally see what you mean. To this day, not entirely sure as to the
"why", but on one union, a new hose leaked at steel line between
injector and hose. Real tiny leak. Like a tiny stain. Noticed it while
static timing engine at a CG.
As for cut off switch at battery, that sounds like a really useful
safety upgrade. Especially if one just bought a Vanagon. (I see email
threads from time to time of people complaining about PO's wiring
work)
I imagine a marine type switch would suffice? Likely 2 if one using an
aux. battery?
To simplify things, could one install it at ground strap(s) to battery(s)?
Neil.
--
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engine
s
