Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (June 2009, week 2)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Tue, 9 Jun 2009 19:00:21 -0700
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: Help with 12v Dometic wiring
Comments: To: mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=response

well that last scenario sounds nasty.

ok, tell me this .......... if the starter trigger wire fell off the solenoid , and you roll started the van ......and the engine fired and the alt. started charging, would the fridge relay then not be able to energize ? ( due to lack of esoteric connection to the fridge relay from the starter ) Scott

----- Original Message ----- From: "mark drillock" <mdrillock@COX.NET> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Tuesday, June 09, 2009 6:36 PM Subject: Re: Help with 12v Dometic wiring

> I'm right in this case. The ignition key switch does nothing to the > circuit except when in the far start position it puts 12 volts on the > relay "ground" while cranking. This keeps the relay from activating > during starting. Some years use this "ground" for the fridge relay and > some don't. This is a redundant feature since the blue wire won't > trigger the relay anyway until the engine starts and the alt light goes > out. > > The resistance of the starter motor solenoid coil is pretty low and it > works fine as a ground for the small relay until 12 volts is applied to > it. Then it sits at closer to 12 volts at the input end, dropping to > zero volts at the true ground end. The relay ground leg is wired to the > starter coil input so the low resistance normally looks enough like > ground to it. The smaller relay coil has a much higher resistance so you > end up with 2 resistors in series. Basic electronic theory says the > voltage will divide between the 2 series "resistors" in proportion to > the individual resistances. Most of the voltage from the blue wire thus > appears across the small relay coil so it activates, unless the ignition > switch puts the starting circuit 12 volts on the shared point. With > near 12 volts at both small relay coil pins very little current flows > and thus the relay just sits there in the off position until the key is > released and the starter coil again looks enough like ground. > > This also explains something that more than a few people have > experienced. If you add a "hard start relay" for the starter motor to a > van that has either a fridge relay or aux battery relay that is using > the starter as a "ground", the starter will re-engage as soon as the alt > led goes out even with the key released. That is because the small "hard > start relay" coil resistance closely matches the fridge or aux battery > relay coil resistance. So when the extra relay is added for the starter > it no longer provides the apparent "ground". Instead the 12 volts from > the blue wire gets divided nearly evenly between the 2 small relays and > 6 volts is often enough to trigger both of them. This makes the starter > grind into the flywheel of the running engine. > > Mark > > Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote: >> that's different than the way I figured it out ...... >> and you could be right, and I wrong ..... >> but here is how I understand and diagnose.and wire that relay under the >> driver's seat. >> Assuming we're talking about the same thing ..... >> that relay is there so either 12v for fridge operation, or charging to a >> aux. battery, can occur ONLY if the alternator is charging. >> >> what I find is that the blue wire from the alternator warning light is >> on one side of the 'triggering' side of the relay. >> If it could just find it's way though the mini-coil inside the relay to >> a ground on the other side ..........that would do the job. >> >> I'm sure they had a good reason for doing it this way .....( instead of >> having a permanent ground the 'normal way." ) >> This wire that we want grounded, ( to complete the circuit to energize >> the relay, to send 12v where we want it ) ........ >> here's how that wire works to me, from my testing. >> >> when you turn on the key , that wire is ....I forget what, but it's not >> ground. >> However, after your turn the key to 'start' and then back to 'on' >> .................that wire becomes grounded. >> and once the alternator kicks in, the relay energizes. >> >> Mark says it's something to do with 'starter motor coil' . >> that could be so....... >> but in my figuring this out ............sure seems to me that it's a >> clever ignition switch that supplies ground to that wire only after >> moving the ignition switch from on, to start, then back to 'on', like >> when starting up the engine ..........I could be wrong, but >> 'functionally' .....this thinking or understanding of it 'works', >> >> Scott >> turbovans >> >>


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.