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Date:         Wed, 10 Jun 2009 08:24:21 -0400
Reply-To:     Ken Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Ken Wilford <kenwilfy@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Tie Rod end removal/Control arm bushings
Comments: To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <01b001c9e949$da000a90$6801a8c0@PROSPERITY>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

The tool I love to use to do this job is actually two tools. One is an air chisel and the other is a pickle fork that goes into the air chisel. I believe I bought this second tool at Autozone. I love this tool. It is almost like magic. You just point it at the ball joint or tie rod end and within a few seconds, it is apart with no effort. You can buy the tool at Autozone and then take it back after you are done for a full refund (Autozone has this tool loaner program so you aren't scamming them). I did just that but I fell in love with the tool and kept it. Once you try this thing you will never go back to just pounding on a pickle fork with a hammer. I did that for many, many years but it gets old after a while.

The upper bushings are pretty easy to remove and replace. Grind of the spot welds, then you can get a short piece of steel pipe that will go around the outside of the bushing and cut it to use as a spacer and press the things out using a large bench vise. Way easier and simpler than using a press. Then just squeeze it back together with the vise and tack weld and you are done. Pretty easy.

We have all of the parts in stock to do this job so if you anyone is in need please let me know. We have warehouses on the East, West and Central US so you are only a day or two away from getting parts from us no matter where you are. Even worldwide our shipments usually take a week at the most. Sent some parts to New Zealand a few months ago. Took four days! You go US Postal system!

Ken Wilford John 3:16 www.vanagain.com

Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote: > Hi, > upper control arm bushings ? > just grind off the spot welds, and press them out on a press. Easy to do. > > I use the hammer method on upper ball joints. It's a larger tapered > part , > than the tie rod is, so you'd need a pretty wide/large pickle fork > for the > upper ball joints , if you wanted to pickle fork them. Hammer method > for me > on those. Sometimes I have to back up what I'm whacking on with a sledge > hammer held behind it . > > 'careful' brute force, let's say. > Scott > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Troy" <colorworks@gci.net> > To: "Scott Daniel - Turbovans" <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> > Cc: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 11:16 PM > Subject: Re: Tie Rod end removal/Control arm bushings > > >> I'm replacing both, and own a pickle fork (don't you love these >> names?) so >> think I'll go that route. Works on upper ball joints too I suppose? I >> love >> the wisdom of an experienced mechanic-- be on the damn thing until it >> gives! Any wisdom on control arm bushings? One person simply said to >> hacksaw the thing into two, and then use a cold chisel to punch it out, >> apparently works great. Brute force wins again! >> >> Troy >> >> >>> hi. >>> I specialize in removing tie rod ends ...... >>> that tapered thing. >>> 'the way' is to give the end of the steering arm that it sits in ( >>> after >>> the nut is loosened but not removed ) .... >>> wahck the hell out of that mother , with a good medium size ball been >>> hammer ...... >>> sharp whacks, not dull thuds . On the 5th to 20th sharp hard whack, the >>> tie rod will jump out of the steering arm. >>> Loosen the nut pretty well, but leave it on to protect the threads >>> while >>> you hammer nearby. >>> check it once in a while to see if it hasn't jumped out. >>> >>> other methods - >>> if you know you're just going to toss the tie rod end ...........pickle >>> fork. Wedged fork thing - it destroys the boot though. >>> Pullers - sure .....but pulling on a taperd thing ..........or >>> pushing .I >>> mean ...... >>> just isn't the same as the hammer method. The few times I've tired it >>> .....well, ..the hammer method is fast and easy. >>> Huge affect - shocking that hole dimension in the steerying arm. Makes >>> it just jump right out. >>> >>> Related - - same for screws and bolts ......a sharp whack on the end >>> of those ( like CV joint screws ) ( with a hammer and drift ) >>> ........makes them a lot easier to unscrew. Major affect. I've had CV >>> screws that felt like they'd strip for sure after pulling hard on them, >>> after the first go around of whacking. So whack on that screw some >>> more. >>> Try it again, Stil no, whack on it five more sharp hard times......and >>> eventually, it'll unscrew. >>> And so will a tie rod end pop out. If it's an extreme case, and the >>> nut >>> is downward, so the tie rod end goes out upward, I might jack on it >>> with >>> a bottle jack ....but still ......sharp hard whacks with a nice medium >>> hammer. >>> >>> I shortened the handle of my favorite ball been hammer just a litle to >>> get better control of it.......of a medium ball been hammer >>> ........about >>> 30 years ago. I carved grip notches in it by holding it up to a >>> grinder >>> ....in a grippy spiral pattern. Your own custom tools are really nice >>> aren't they ! ? >>> That hammer has undone one helleva lot of tie rod ends. ! :) >>> >> >


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