Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 00:03:30 -0700
Reply-To: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Tie Rod end removal/Control arm bushings
In-Reply-To: <3F072F85193E4C1CA5B506AA396C89B4@troyb5bff49d63>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Hey Troy, great tutorial by Paul Guzyk in the Archives with circles and
arrows and a half a paragraph on the back:
"Over the holidays while visiting family in Vancouver I had the
pleasure of replacing lower ball joints (actually, most of the front
end pieces) on an 84 Westy. The van drives 100% better and the
front end feels amazing now. No steering slop at all.
We all know upper ball joints are easy to change, but the lower ones
on my project van were shot also. I decided to see if I could do it
without the help of a machine shop or fabricating any tools.
I was able to accomplish the task with two expensive yet "free"
loaner tools from Canadian Tire. I'm pretty sure these loaner tools
are also available from Autozone in the US.
I don't know if this procedure (and tools) will work on 85 up
Vanagons (or Syncros) but I'd imagine they will. Perhaps another 2.1
person can report their findings?
1980-84 Vanagon Lower Ball Joint replacement photo procedure:
http://californiavan.com/frontend/80-84lowerballjoints/
FYI: Free Loaner tools (deposit required) available at many Canadian
Tire, Autozone etc. stores
http://tinyurl.com/sc9zy"
On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 10:10 PM, Troy <colorworks@gci.net> wrote:
> I am tackling control arm bushings and tie rod ends this coming week. I am
> assuming since the control arm bushings are pressed in that they probably
> also take a press to remove (after grinding away the spot weld)? Seems like
> a person could use a threaded rod with some fender washers, making sure to
> use a block of wood in between the control arm ends to avoid distortion or
> compression to press the new ones in. What about removing the bushings? Any
> tips here? Better left to a shop with a press? Since spot welding can be
> disastrous to the bushings if not done correctly, what about just using some
> JB Weld? The stuff holds something like 2 tons, and I would think it would
> be totally adequate. One person mentioned he did not weld his at all and did
> not have any trouble--comments? I have a 2WD.
>
>
> Question also about tie rod ends. The Bentley refers to pressing them out.
> I did see one mention in the archives to hammering on the drop arm, (think I
> got that right) which from what I understand temporarily distorts the
> tapered hole releasing the tie rod end. Is there some reason a gear puller
> would not work? I'm not sure what kind of force is necessary here, but also
> gathered just beating the end of the tie rod is not the way to go! I can
> pretty easily rent a gear puller from a rental shop for probably five
> dollars a day. I don't mind trying some of this stuff, but always ask to
> make sure I'm not getting into a can of worms or doing something beyond my
> capability.
>
> Troy
>
--
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
Crescent Beach, BC
www.thebassspa.com
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
