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Date:         Fri, 31 Jul 2009 11:07:56 -0230
Reply-To:     Joy Hecht <jhecht@ALUM.MIT.EDU>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Joy Hecht <jhecht@ALUM.MIT.EDU>
Subject:      Re: Westy rear table mods: here's another one
In-Reply-To:  <4d1b79350907271021s2518beb8leb25ecb620f371ee@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

Is this all a mod to enable you to open the clothes cabinet door? Not clear what you are actually doing here.

Later vans have a slightly smaller cabinet door, which opens above the table, so this isn't an issue. In older vans, cutting the door down a bit might be an easier way to accomplish the same thing. Saw off a small strip of the bottom of the door, glue it into place so it still basically looks the same except for a line where you cut it. But then only the upper part of the door would swing open.

Joy

On Mon, Jul 27, 2009 at 2:51 PM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:

> I just completed the all-of-five-minute modification that will allow > me to raise the rear table straight up to access the two cabinets > underneath without pulling the table out. It took a minute of > whittling on the end of a 1" dowel and a dab of epoxy. Thanks to the > original poster a week or so ago for that. > > While installing it, it came to me that if you could just make the end > of the table flip up and over itself with a hinge, you could also open > the cabinet door without pulling the table out, either in its raised > or lowered position. > > While I haven't done this yet, I remembered some nice brass hinges I > had lying around from my furniture making days. They are called card > table hinges, and they go on the edges of the table (unlike "normal > hinges that mount underneath) and allow the top to flop over itself > 180 degrees. Here's a link > <http://www.paxtonhardware.com/Card-Table-Hinges/departments/1022/> > > These are pretty pricey, but very well made. They are made by chance > to pretty perfectly fit the thickness of the westy table material. It > would probably help to screw an extension under the table surface a > few inches out for the table to rest on when it is in the extended > position—the hinges are certainly strong enough to bear the weight of > use, but I doubt if the plywood material would put up with the torque > that would be put on the screws on each side. A careful job with a > sharp knife could cut away the exact amount and shape of the rubber > t-molding to recess these beautifully. > > You would have to pull the table out about an inch to flop it over (to > miss the curtains and the elastic cord in front of them), but then it > could be pushed back to the wall/window. > > Has anybody ever tried it? > > Jim >


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