Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 14:08:33 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Rust Rot
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=response
Sure, it's easy, I specialize in it even.
Sounds like an odd shaped spot to deal with .......but here's what I do ,
even for a hole clear through.
first........pick, dig, or grind away ALL flakey rusty metal. Even if all
you end up with is swiss cheese. Ulitmately .......all junky flakey metal
needs to not be there.
If there's no holes through.......then it's super easy to deal with.
so you've got bare metal, or what's left of it..........treath that with
'rust converter' .....
two kinds I've seen, one in a spray can, one you brush on. Hardware stores
and good automotive stores have them. Treat the metal with this stuff.
A 'too strong one' is Osphro .....
it etches the metal real well, and it can't rust again there, but
......it'll eat your concrete floor too. So be careful with that stuff.
I have even used a dental 'spray pick' to spray osphro or any liguid rust
treatment like 3 or 4 feet back inside a frame rail.
then ........the way I fill in metal.
Get some good material to work with. For sheet metal kind of thing, get
galvanized sheet metal at the hardward store.
When that's not thick enough .......find whatever you can. I save old
.......whatever, 'car door skin' .......for material to work with.
The more structural the spot......the thicker the stuff you need of course.
Even steel plate if that's what you've got and it's right for the
application.
cut and shape and hammer that to fit perfecty. Years ago I found a channel
lock pliers with not teeth in the jaws........I bend my metal with that so
the metal doesnt' get nicked up from the pliers jaws. But get your piece of
metal to go in the spot.
the best metal bonding adhesive I've found so far is Duramax 4125, which you
get online or at a professional grade paint and bodywork supply place. You
need a special gun to apply it as it mixes the two parts.
I call this stuff 'space ship grade metal epoxy'.
Not kidding ........the tensile strength must be 10,000 lbs per square inch
.......something way up there. You put two pieces of metal together with
this stuff.....
it's permanent.
Then I primer paint all the new areas, I like this 'self-etching' green
primer a lot.
then finally.......paint with whatever you want.
there are paints like POR 15 ......which stands for 'paint over rust '
............those stick like mad, and treat the metal - overkill almost, but
awesome shinny and durable and expensive paint.
If you do good work, and half take care of things , even ordianry spray
paint will hold a long, long time. It's all in the prep.
When the final coat of whatever goes on over metal.........it should be like
the last 2 % of the entire process. Where 'the real repair' takes place is
all in the prep.
but that'll fix things quite well. I fixed a rotted out mercedes car floor
with this method ........elephants could jump up and down on it, it's like
stronger than the rest of the car almost.
Best resutls are with products designed for bonding metal. Epoxy steel,
but not fiberglass say. Two-part materials that you mix are always
superior to one part things that you don't mix, pretty much.
save your vanagon !
Scott
www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Rodgers" <inua@CHARTER.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2009 7:22 AM
Subject: Rust Rot
>I had my van up on the rack yesterday as part of the action to replace
> the speedometer cable. I opted for the one piece cable and removed the
> two piece one from the vehicle. New one works great. As my ol' Granny
> used to say " it's slick'r than owl dung!"
>
> While under there, I looked at the spot right under the foot pedal, and
> was dismayed at the degree of rust rot that has occured at that spot.
> The shape of the metal at that location looks like a moisture/water
> trap. At this stage it's not just rust - but the metal has actually
> rotted through. This is going ot cause me some grief if I don't get on
> it and make a repair. It's not an easy spot, either.
>
> Has anyone dealt with this particular issue before. Any input would be
> appreciated.
>
> BTW, my 88 GL is pretty rust free but for this one spot.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Rodger
> Chelsea, AL