Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 22:50:16 -0400
Reply-To: pdooley <psdooley@VERIZON.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: pdooley <psdooley@VERIZON.NET>
Subject: Re: replacing brake lines
In-Reply-To: <b2ac7c9e0908041932x3e1d2066nf6f284b673d0d984@mail.gmail.com>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Judging by the rust content, the wrench size will be adjustable, as in
vise-grips.
The flare nuts should be 11mm. When the nut strips, use the
afore-mentioned.
-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Mark
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 10:32 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: replacing brake lines
Whole line is coming out. I cut it at the "T" junction in the rear. Traced
all the twists and turns to the front - and it ends up (I believe) at the
brake pressure regulator - which looks pretty scary. It's shedding rust.
Almost looks like a log wedged up under the bus, not a mechanical part.
Anyhow - I'll attempt to remove the other end of the brake line, but I'm
skeptical. Any advice on wrench sizes. Seems like 10mm is too small - 11mm
too big. Could it be standard?? 3/8 too small 7/16 too big... Should I
replace the regulator if it looks like that - seems like a can of worms...
but I gotta learn somehow.
Mark
1990 Westy 2.1 manual
On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 3:34 PM, Rob <becida@comcast.net> wrote:
> I'd change to whole line rather than try and splice it, a whole lot
easier.
> I'd let drip but that me, you could drain the MC but It will still drip.
> Good luck.
>
> Rob
>
>
> At 8/4/2009 11:35 AM,Mark wrote:
>
>> Thanks for all the advice - it sounds pretty simple so I think I'll go
for
>> it. I found the leak - it's in the line that leads to the rear junction.
>> Is it pretty simple to put a splice in if need be? Also, do I need to
>> empty
>> the brake fluid before I remove the junction? Or do I just loosen the
nut
>> and let the brake fluid drip out (hopefully not all over my clothes or
>> face)?
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> 1990 Westy, manual 2.1
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 6:24 AM, Frank Condelli <RAlanen@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>> > In a message dated 03/08/2009 8:32:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>> > LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
>> >
>> > Not much to it. You will need a tube bender, flaring tool for
>> > double bubble flare ends, brake line, the best you can buy, and new
>> male
>> > metric threaded nipples. Take off the old line and make a duplicate
>> then
>> > install it, one by one
>> >
>> > .
>> >
>> > >>>>>Anyone have any tips on replacing brake lines? Searched the
>> forum,
>> > but
>> > didn't see much. I've watched some YouTube videos on how to do it:
>> > _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Im2NVo1aw0&NR=1&feature=fvwp_
>> > (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Im2NVo1aw0&NR=1&feature=fvwp) -
>> didn't
>> > know
>> > if there were better resources.
>> >
>> > I have a leak in a line that goes from the left rear to the rear
>> > connector.
>> > I'm finding rust in other parts of the system and I'm thinking of
>> > replacing
>> > with all new lines.<<<<<
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
--
Mark
1990 Westy (2.1 - manual)
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