Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 10:27:05 -0400
Reply-To: Karl <tdiguru@WESTYVENTURES.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Karl <tdiguru@WESTYVENTURES.COM>
Subject: Re: Windshield Frame Rust
In-Reply-To: <c3c.5e715826.37b69abe@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Frank, don't get your knickers in a knot. I know how working on rusty
old vans can make a man cranky! :-) Whatever works for you is fine. In
the restoration biz one always uses 'like' materials for repairs, so
fiberglass for fiberglass, metal for metal. Fiberglass itself will not
rust, true, but what do you do about the rust on the underside of the
hole you are repairing, to avoid rust creep from behind the patch? To
treat that, you would need to remove the dash, same as you would to
weld, and apply POR-15 or other sealants. A skilled welder can MIG-weld
sheet metal without warping, especially in small areas. The windshield
rust described may be an unimportant area, strength-wise, and 'glass can
be used there, but no way, no how is it as strong as steel welded in the
same spot. Sure, 'glass is faster and less time-consuming, but metal is
a definite lasting repair - metal can't be lifted off metal at a weld
point, and if prepared, protected and sealed properly will last forever.
Body glue -- as I mentioned earlier, works fine to attach panels, but if
it is not sealed from corrosion behind the perimeter of the repair, it
too will eventually be loosened as rust creeps in around the edges of
the repair.
POR-15 is not a miracle cure for everything, it has it place in
restoration but sometimes folks over-estimate it's abilities.
Frank, we all have our ways of doing things; if it works for you, that's
cool, but please don't get so upset if we all don't agree. I mean,
waterboxers even work for you, some of us don't care to drive them
anywhere. :-)
Cheers,
Karl
Frank Condelli wrote:
Well, you can laugh all you want if it makes you feel good.
> HOWEVER, with the POR-15 there the metal WILL NOT RUST EVER again. Welding in
> new metal may work just as well IF and I say IF you coat the metal with
> POR-15. Otherwise the rust is coming back ! AND, welding has it's own set of
> problems, like warping the surrounding metal which you have to deal with.
> The POR-15 and Fiberglas is just as strong as welding in new metal and WILL
> not rust, EVER, and you do not need to re-level the area due to the heat
> from welding, and grinding down the weld which if not done right will weaken
> the joint. AND, to clarify this, I am not advocating using the Fiberglas
> in large areas, only in small holes like in the windshield frame situation.
> On body panels where there is extensive rusting and large areas of metal
> missing, I glue weld in new metal to be sure. I have been in the
> restoration business all my life also so don't get me started. I have done it every
> which way there ever was and more. I am more than satisfied with the
> results using the POR-15 method. No more come backs, no more rust bubbling up
> years after and the area is solid and as I said "Better than new" BECAUSE
> --- tada ------ it will not rust again -----EVER ! Now I must clarify
> that last statement because someone somewhere will pick it apart. The
> POR-15 has to encapsulate the metal or it will rust again. If the oxidation
> process can find a way to get in-between the POR-15 and the metal it will
> push the POR-15 off and rust is back you can be sure.
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