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Date:         Wed, 19 Aug 2009 11:24:32 -0500
Reply-To:     John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject:      Re: '87 Vanagon GL: Oil leaks
Comments: To: Douglas and Annie Dodson-Mäuck
          <primalflow@SUDDENLINK.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <E3B0469F73D34E03915CF4F39E376905@TIMEMACHINE>
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I've had the oil leak problem twice - and twice it was the front crankshaft seal - the one where you must separate the engine and and the transmission in order to replace. It is a royal PITA! Lots of work to get to it - to have to remove the transmission. But that is what it takes. Once there - the R&R of the seal is not that big of a deal. If the seal is loose, or the new one seems to go in easily with just hand pressure - I would recommend using some type of seal adhesive to ensure the seal won't leak again. In addition to the seal (which is relatively inexpensive) you should change the pilot bearing that fits into the end of the crankshaft (also not expensive) which supports the transmission pilot shaft. You will need the felt grease seal that keeps the grease in the pilot bearing. This felt seal is just a felt washer but it is important in keeping the grease in and the dirt out. In addition to the felt seal - there is a metal bushing inside the flywheel that holds the pilot bearing felt seal in place once the flywheel is in place. . This bushing is often missing because machinists - when milling the flywheel face - punch it out so they can mount the flywheel on the lathe. It doesn't get put back in. The pilot shaft from the transmission passes through this bushing and into the pilot bearing. This bushing does nothing but keep the felt pilot bearing grease seal in place. Some have said that this bushing is not important - but I disagree. Without the bushing to keep the felt seal in place, the seal is loose, and can allow dirt and clutch disk debris to enter the end of the pilot bearing speeding the wearing out of the bearing. Also, being loose, the felt seal is subject to being destroyed and then there is no protection for the pilot bearing to prevent drit from entering, and no protection from loss of grease, all resulting in pilot bearing failure. This bushing is NLA through VW, and if yours is missing you may well have to have one made, unless there is someone who is already making them and willing to sell them. The bushing cam be made from brass and easily pressed into the flywheel.

I did not mention that once you remove the transmission you may want to do a clutch job at the same time. Removing the transmission and re-installing it is an expensive proposition just for labor alone. While it's apart, it is time to do a clutch job if there is any mileage on it since the last clutch job. When a clutch job is done, having the flywheel face machined at a a machine shop is par for the course. Makes for a much better fit between the flywheel face and the new clutch disk. But it is here when the problem about the flywheel bushing arises. So if you have a busing in there, be sure to let the machine shop know that you expect to get the bushing back. They don't have to install it - either you or your mechanic can do it easy enough, but it doesn't need to be lost out of ignorance of the part.

If you have the flywheel face machines - you may need some new flywheel shims - be prepared for that.

If yours is a manual tranny, now is the time to check the condition of all the parts that are accessible within the bell housing. There are several bits, pieces and parts that mount inside the bell or pass through it, and they wear. Check them out and R&R if needed. Now is the time.

Also, now may be the time to check out - replace the slave clutch cylinder that mounts on the side of the tranny. If you have never changed it out - now is the time, as a preventive measure.

Another issue at tranny removal time is the shift arm on the side of the transmission. These wear, and shifting gets funky over time. There are two or three bits and pieces that need to be replaced where the shift arm and the shifter shaft from up front attach. There are also a couple of pieces of accordion rubber that go there as well to keep dirt out. These usually wear out and then the whole thing gets crapped up and and wears rapidly and doesn't shift well.

While on the subject of shifting - The shifting of the manual trannys can be vastly improved in many cases without going inside the tranny, but simply by some good maintenance on the shifter mechanism. There are three areas that need attention, and are easy enough to work with. The shifter mechanism at the tranny - there are several relatively inexpensive external parts that wear and need replacing periodically. An easy do. Then up front there are three or four plastic parts that need replacing for the stick to shift well. You will need to drop the spare tire to do the up front work, because the shifter must be loosened from underneath so you can pull it out, but the plastic parts go in from the top. And the third part to consider is the box underneath the floor board into which the shifter shaft from back to front (or front to back)goes into. The end of the shaft has fittings which slide into fittings in the box. If the fittings on the shaft are worn, or the fittings in the box are worn - or both - the whole thing may not work well. These need to be inspected for excessive wear and replaced if needed. The box has one removable part and one part permanently made to the box. If worn, the one part can be removed simply by removing some screws, and a new part put in. If the other part is worn - you will need to replace the entire box because it's all made as a single piece. Can't take it apart. When all done - put a little grease on it.

Because you must have the transaxles disconnected at the tranny end to remove the transmission, now would be a good time to completely remove the transaxles and service the CV's. Once the transaxles are out of the van, CV's are easy. There are several websites up that show pictorially how to do this. I would strongly recommend it

That about covers it for anything connected to the tranny - but not inside the tranny. That's another issue best addressed by Daryl at AA Transaxle.

Good luck,

John Rodgers 88 GL Driver

Douglas and Annie Dodson-Mäuck wrote: > Hello all, > > I have oil leaks that I need to address and was wondering where the most common suspected points of origin might be? > > The individual from whom I purchased it said that he thought one of the crankshaft seals could be the culprit. The leaks do appear to dripping from both ends of the engine though that could also be the result of one leak trailing to another location, pooling then dripping, right? > > > I've always been fortunate with all of the vehicles in my possession and have been able to get by with only minor repairs, replacements, upgrades or maintenance, so please bear with my apparent lack of knowledge concerning what may possibly require a more involved wrenching experience. > > > > ~ Doug > > '87 VanaGL 2WD > > >


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