Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 11:24:32 -0500
Reply-To: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: John Rodgers <inua@CHARTER.NET>
Subject: Re: '87 Vanagon GL: Oil leaks
In-Reply-To: <E3B0469F73D34E03915CF4F39E376905@TIMEMACHINE>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I've had the oil leak problem twice - and twice it was the front
crankshaft seal - the one where you must separate the engine and and
the transmission in order to replace. It is a royal PITA! Lots of work
to get to it - to have to remove the transmission. But that is what it
takes. Once there - the R&R of the seal is not that big of a deal. If
the seal is loose, or the new one seems to go in easily with just hand
pressure - I would recommend using some type of seal adhesive to ensure
the seal won't leak again. In addition to the seal (which is relatively
inexpensive) you should change the pilot bearing that fits into the end
of the crankshaft (also not expensive) which supports the transmission
pilot shaft. You will need the felt grease seal that keeps the grease in
the pilot bearing. This felt seal is just a felt washer but it is
important in keeping the grease in and the dirt out. In addition to the
felt seal - there is a metal bushing inside the flywheel that holds the
pilot bearing felt seal in place once the flywheel is in place. . This
bushing is often missing because machinists - when milling the flywheel
face - punch it out so they can mount the flywheel on the lathe. It
doesn't get put back in. The pilot shaft from the transmission passes
through this bushing and into the pilot bearing. This bushing does
nothing but keep the felt pilot bearing grease seal in place. Some have
said that this bushing is not important - but I disagree. Without the
bushing to keep the felt seal in place, the seal is loose, and can allow
dirt and clutch disk debris to enter the end of the pilot bearing
speeding the wearing out of the bearing. Also, being loose, the felt
seal is subject to being destroyed and then there is no protection for
the pilot bearing to prevent drit from entering, and no protection from
loss of grease, all resulting in pilot bearing failure. This bushing is
NLA through VW, and if yours is missing you may well have to have one
made, unless there is someone who is already making them and willing to
sell them. The bushing cam be made from brass and easily pressed into
the flywheel.
I did not mention that once you remove the transmission you may want to
do a clutch job at the same time. Removing the transmission and
re-installing it is an expensive proposition just for labor alone. While
it's apart, it is time to do a clutch job if there is any mileage on it
since the last clutch job. When a clutch job is done, having the
flywheel face machined at a a machine shop is par for the course. Makes
for a much better fit between the flywheel face and the new clutch disk.
But it is here when the problem about the flywheel bushing arises. So if
you have a busing in there, be sure to let the machine shop know that
you expect to get the bushing back. They don't have to install it -
either you or your mechanic can do it easy enough, but it doesn't need
to be lost out of ignorance of the part.
If you have the flywheel face machines - you may need some new flywheel
shims - be prepared for that.
If yours is a manual tranny, now is the time to check the condition of
all the parts that are accessible within the bell housing. There are
several bits, pieces and parts that mount inside the bell or pass
through it, and they wear. Check them out and R&R if needed. Now is the
time.
Also, now may be the time to check out - replace the slave clutch
cylinder that mounts on the side of the tranny. If you have never
changed it out - now is the time, as a preventive measure.
Another issue at tranny removal time is the shift arm on the side of the
transmission. These wear, and shifting gets funky over time. There are
two or three bits and pieces that need to be replaced where the shift
arm and the shifter shaft from up front attach. There are also a couple
of pieces of accordion rubber that go there as well to keep dirt out.
These usually wear out and then the whole thing gets crapped up and and
wears rapidly and doesn't shift well.
While on the subject of shifting - The shifting of the manual trannys
can be vastly improved in many cases without going inside the tranny,
but simply by some good maintenance on the shifter mechanism. There are
three areas that need attention, and are easy enough to work with. The
shifter mechanism at the tranny - there are several relatively
inexpensive external parts that wear and need replacing periodically.
An easy do. Then up front there are three or four plastic parts that
need replacing for the stick to shift well. You will need to drop the
spare tire to do the up front work, because the shifter must be loosened
from underneath so you can pull it out, but the plastic parts go in from
the top. And the third part to consider is the box underneath the floor
board into which the shifter shaft from back to front (or front to
back)goes into. The end of the shaft has fittings which slide into
fittings in the box. If the fittings on the shaft are worn, or the
fittings in the box are worn - or both - the whole thing may not work
well. These need to be inspected for excessive wear and replaced if
needed. The box has one removable part and one part permanently made to
the box. If worn, the one part can be removed simply by removing some
screws, and a new part put in. If the other part is worn - you will need
to replace the entire box because it's all made as a single piece. Can't
take it apart. When all done - put a little grease on it.
Because you must have the transaxles disconnected at the tranny end to
remove the transmission, now would be a good time to completely remove
the transaxles and service the CV's. Once the transaxles are out of the
van, CV's are easy. There are several websites up that show pictorially
how to do this. I would strongly recommend it
That about covers it for anything connected to the tranny - but not
inside the tranny. That's another issue best addressed by Daryl at AA
Transaxle.
Good luck,
John Rodgers
88 GL Driver
Douglas and Annie Dodson-Mäuck wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I have oil leaks that I need to address and was wondering where the most common suspected points of origin might be?
>
> The individual from whom I purchased it said that he thought one of the crankshaft seals could be the culprit. The leaks do appear to dripping from both ends of the engine though that could also be the result of one leak trailing to another location, pooling then dripping, right?
>
>
> I've always been fortunate with all of the vehicles in my possession and have been able to get by with only minor repairs, replacements, upgrades or maintenance, so please bear with my apparent lack of knowledge concerning what may possibly require a more involved wrenching experience.
>
>
>
> ~ Doug
>
> '87 VanaGL 2WD
>
>
>
| 
