Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 05:15:25 -0700
Reply-To: Joel Cort <joel_cort@YAHOO.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Joel Cort <joel_cort@YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: CV drive axle, 89 auto
In-Reply-To: <CEF11024EA4E48DCA77AB85CF04B9280@troyb5bff49d63>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Hey Troy,
It is much simpler to replace the entire axle with two fresh CV joints, rather than anything else.
Check out Benny Boy's web page on CVs http://www.benplace.com/cv_boot_anatomy.htm
and Tom Carrington's http://volksweb.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm
there are a couple other pages out there as well. This is a greasy job so be ready to clean up the mess.
Most of the re manufactured axles are now made in China. They are good quality and last as long as any other axles that I have seen. You will have no problem with an automatic, but I have heard of some guys with a Syncro Vanagon having failures under heavy loads in 4wd climbing through ruts.
The brand name that I see on the boxes of re manufactured driveliens from the list vendors and Autozone is EMPI. EMPI is renown for VW aftermarket components, so even made in China, they have a quality control at EMPI before reselling it. I have also changed Subaru axles and they too were made in China.
On the Vanagon 4 speed or Automatic, they are the mechanically the same. The only difference is in the length of the axles for the Auto. There is a left side and right side both of different length and not the same as the 4 speed rear end.
Make sure that you have the right tools to work with the bolts. There are some normal allen bolts with 6 slots and there are some not common 12 slot bolts. These are fun to remove if you do not have the tool. The list vendors sell the 12 point tool.
The other things is to clean out the road crud in the allen bolt to get a good solid grip when you try to put pressure to loosen the old bolt.
Do yourself a big favor and spend the money to replace all the bolts with new ones. I have now broken 2 used bolts trying to get the proper torque (I think that it is like 38 psi or so). That kind of torque on a used bolt is enough to snap it off. then you are stuck with a threaded stud in the axle. The bolts on the inside of the trailing arm are harder to get to and you do not want to mess with a broken or stripped bolt in that tight spot. If you do strip the head and your tool will not loosen the bolt you may try a vice-grip if you can get a grip or simply drill the head off the stud - no big whoop.
Good luck
Joel Cort
Rochester NY.
89 Syncro Westy (CinnabarVan)
87 Syncro Transporter (Stella)
73 Westy Campmobile (agent orange)
Founding Member of the Empire VW Camping Club
&
Westies at Watkins - www.westies-at-watkins.org
________________________________
From: Troy <colorworks@GCI.NET>
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 10:01:19 PM
Subject: CV drive axle, 89 auto
Hi folks:
CV's are really starting to make some noise, and for the price of the whole drive axle, I thought it would be easier just replace the whole works. Volks Cafe has the drive axle and CV for about $90 per side + another $20 for hardware. They state that these are made in China, so that certainly doesn't sound too good. Not sure of the brand that Go Westy sells ($150 per side) and I don't even see them on The Bus Depot site for autos--Ron?
This is something I've never done before, so is there a how-to article out there I can refer to? It appears they just Bolt on, ha!, where have I heard that before? My transmission was replaced not too long ago so I don't expect I will run into stubborn bolts. If this literally a bolt on proposition + adding some additional grease or is this a job best left to a professional?
Recommendations on where to buy would be helpful as well. Are the drive axles from Volks Cafe decent or where is the best place to buy? I need these a.s.a.p.
Troy
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