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Date:         Fri, 28 Aug 2009 12:30:58 -0700
Reply-To:     Michael Hart <mjhart853@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Michael Hart <mjhart853@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Re: AC Repair report
Comments: To: mcperdue@GMAIL.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Marc, I would say 'definitely', but with a few caveats; Replacing the compressor is mechanically about as simple as replacing the alternator, but I suggest you get the system evacuated first (unless you know for sure there is no refrigerant at all in the system); just opening the system will vent any remaining to the atmosphere (& it's a 'bad' CFC). Mark (San Carlos AC) charged me $60 to leak check & evacuate the system before I opened it up. If you replace the compressor, the vendors 'require' you to replace the drier/receiver (<$40 from our online vendors) to keep the warantee (it's also a good idea!) and you should also replace all the 'O' rings at each joint. If the hoses are original (as for my van), then they will most likely be leaking (pin holes) & your refrigerant recharge will not last long. Replacing the hoses is the biggest job, but fairly straightforward if you keep track of what you are taking out (photos may help, I just drew a sketch & kept all the parts together). You can cut the old hoses to make it easier to remove them, but then I suggest you make notes on how to re-thread the new ones. The hoses go through all kinds of bulkheads, grommets & brackets on their way from back to front of the van (dirty work of course). Silicone lubricant makes pulling & re-threading the hoses through these MUCH easier (key information given to me by Mark). I added one additional joint to the longest hose to make it easier to thread from both ends. Some brackets are obstructed by the propane tank (apparently the AC lines were installed before the propane tank) & I had to cut these brackets out. It's very tight getting into the overhead cabinet (remove the backplate) and I needed to buy a 90 degree adjustable wrench to act as counter-wrench in that area. It all just takes time (~10 hours in my case, going slowly & carefully). After you have done all this, you will need to recharge the system - again, I left this to the expert. Cost breakdown: leak check/evacuate $60; rebuild hoses $325; drier $40; recharge/add oil/leak check $205 (each inc 9% CA tax). My compressor was newer than original & quiet, so I did not replace this (I think these are ~$300). By doing the work myself, I saved > $1000 over the quoted shop price. You could recharge yourself with R134 (the newer refrigerant, available at FLAPS), but the cooling will be worse (& you don't get the professional test of the system pressures, leaks etc.). Mike '87 Westy

Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 11:49:57 -0400 From: Marc Perdue <mcperdue@GMAIL.COM> Subject: Re: AC Repair report

I was considering doing this on one of my vehicles, but was nervous about working with this type of system. Is replacing the compressor, drier/receiver something that any weekend warrior could do, or is this something best left to the experts?

Thanks, Marc


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