Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 12:32:54 -0700
Reply-To: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Long Brake Line Tips + Removal Question
In-Reply-To: <c4e7c5f90909041202w2f4be60dj469edb442d7bb032@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Flare nut wrenches are imperative as is judicious use of the 'Hot Wrench'.
Just as with plumbing, it helps to drain the lines before heating.
On Fri, Sep 4, 2009 at 12:02 PM, neil N <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all.
>
> Tips for getting flare nut(s) loose. Especially nut at rear "T"
> junction block. If you don't care what happens to line, some info
> might be moot. Still it might help.
>
> If possible, only use a proper sized metric flare nut wrench.
>
> Nut at regulator was easy. I applied pic (by feel. See below), then
> penetrating fluid and brush before attempting to turn it.
>
> On nut at rear "T", used hook pic to carefully scrape out rust between
> line and nut, and where nut meets block. Added penetrating fluid. Wire
> brushed. Waited. Repeated. Used Dremel with small wire wheel. Dremel
> likely overkill. Placed screwdriver on flat between "T" block and
> body. This kept block from twisting. Twisting might apply undue
> pressure to other rear lines or block itself (only one screw holding
> it in place), but most importantly, it helped to properly apply torque
> to flare nut. Tried flare nut wrench, but ended up using small vice
> grips to crack nut loose.
>
> I wanted to keep the line "as is" to copy the bends. So.....
>
> "Ragged" (removed) rust on line at/near nut at "T" block, with band of
> emery *cloth* so nut would turn and not turn/grab and destroy the
> line. Small pair of vice grips on one end of cloth helped as strip of
> cloth wasn't long enough. It's a relatively tight space. Looping cloth
> around line helped cover most of it.
>
> Pretty sure I'll have to cut the line to remove, but was curious.
>
> On an '81 Westy (though later models may be same or similar design):
>
> Can the entire long brake line from pressure regulator to rear "T"
> block be removed in one piece?
>
> It seems caught up in coolant lines etc. at space above front cross
> member/gas tank area.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Neil.
>
> --
> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
>
> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>
--
Beverley Anne de Villiers April 20, 1930 - July 4, 2009
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
Crescent Beach, BC
www.thebassspa.com
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
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