Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 17:49:17 -0600
Reply-To: Bob Stevens <mtbiker62@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Bob Stevens <mtbiker62@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: flashing LED
In-Reply-To: <728CE486-3E3A-451C-B65C-EAEB0A92E870@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Isn't that a great bong-cleaning procedure!!! ;-)Wonder what the messing
with the radiator filler screw part is about?
bob ... bongless in Utahr
On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 4:02 PM, Tom Buese <tombuese@comcast.net> wrote:
> That sounds like a volk could make 1 even if they have been using the
> bong preemptively?
>
> Thanks for the description. A pic at your convenience(maybe post on
> the wiki?) would be even better!
>
> Pax,
>
> Mr. BZ-makes moi want to change the coolant
>
>
>
> On Sep 9, 2009, at 3:55 PM, Jim Felder wrote:
>
> I will send pictures if you like, but probably not necessary.
>>
>> As I said, you are using common plumbing parts to extend the neck of
>> the filler bottle to a level higher than the top of the radiator. The
>> implications should be obvious--gravity is going to bleed your system
>> thoroughly in just a few minutes.
>>
>> Find a rubber plumbing reducer of a size that the smaller end fits
>> over the neck of your tank. If you have a diesel that uses the old
>> metal style caps, you will have to get an old cap and drill out all
>> the stuff attached to the metal cap, so you just have the metal cap.
>> Glue the rubber gasket to the underside, as there will be no springs
>> or anything to hold it in. If you go the diesel route, you will epoxy
>> a half-inch galvanized coupling onto the top of the cap to give the
>> plumbing reducer something to clamp to. The top of the metal cap must
>> have a hole through it, obviously.
>>
>> But for most of you without the diesel's original style tank, skip all
>> that and read on.
>>
>> Into the top, wider end of the plumbing reducer, buy a two-foot piece
>> of pvc pipe made to fit it and clamp it into place.
>>
>> Just above the rubber of the reducer, in the side of the pvc pipe,
>> drill and tap for a nylon elbow with pipe threads at one end and a
>> barbed 90 degree connection on the other. To this you will attach a
>> length of clear plastic tubing. Put a coathanger wire s-hook to the
>> end of the pipe with a hose clamp. this will allow you to hook the end
>> of the tube to the open end of the pvc pipe.
>>
>> The clear plastic hose is important and serves two purposes. While it
>> is attached to the pvc pipe, alongside the pipe, it allows you to
>> observe the level and rate of change in the level of the water going
>> into the system. This is a big convenience, especially when you're
>> doing everything yourself. With the end of the hose unhooked and
>> lowered into a jug or bottle, the apparatus can be emptied of all but
>> the last inch or so of coolant above the tank in case the system gets
>> full and you've got excess coolant in the bong..
>>
>> You first fill the tank and then attach the bong. Start the motor,
>> open the heater, bypass, etc. as you normally would. Remove the
>> radiator vent screw and add coolant. Mix the coolant in a gallon jug
>> and use it to add. Keep adding as the level drops. You don't need to
>> rev the engine. When it comes out of the radiator with no air, put the
>> screw back in, remove the bong, replace the cap--the tank will be
>> absolutely full--and go use the bong for something else.
>>
>> Five minutes, I tell you!
>>
>> It's great.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 4:35 PM, Tom Buese<tombuese@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> On Sep 9, 2009, at 3:31 PM, Jim Felder wrote:
>>>
>>> Either all that, or for ten bucks you can build yourself a "Libby
>>>> Bong" named for Andrew Libby on the diesel list who invented it. It
>>>> creates a column for the coolant tank higher than the top of the
>>>> radiator. 5 minutes, no muss no fuss. It's more difficult to create
>>>> for the diesel than for the waterboxer, which is so simple it is a
>>>> shame not to have one.
>>>>
>>>> I tried mine for the first time yesterday.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Details of the Libby Bong?
>>>
>>> Mr. BZ-gotta have 1 just for the name
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Jim
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 7:07 AM, Warren Lail<wklail@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi Sunshine,
>>>>>
>>>>> The only way to really bleed the WBX is to either raise the front
>>>>> end
>>>>> with a floor jack (pretty high in the air - be careful) or to
>>>>> park on
>>>>> a steep hill and bleed it while on the incline. The front end
>>>>> needs
>>>>> to be higher than one would think in order to get all the air
>>>>> removed.
>>>>> And then bleed it over several days because some trapped air will
>>>>> eventually move forward. Of course, the engine needs to be warm
>>>>> and
>>>>> idling at the time.
>>>>>
>>>>> Good luck,
>>>>>
>>>>> Warren in Santa Fe
>>>>> 88 Westy "Billy Bones"
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 6:01 AM, Sunshine <vwbusgirl@kc.rr.com>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> After pondering everything and making sure there was coolant
>>>>>> filled to
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> brim of the expansion tank (which it was), cleaning the coolant
>>>>>> sensor
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> checking it's o-ring and snugging it back down with some ATV.....
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I began thinking that everything seemed to not go well after I
>>>>>> had bled
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> coolant this last time and didn't really bleed it as long as I had
>>>>>> previously from the radiator bleed screw on the front. Then I
>>>>>> lost a
>>>>>> tiny
>>>>>> bit when I removed/installed the new thermo/temp switch on the
>>>>>> radiator
>>>>>> (this could have put air in the system as well). But the
>>>>>> coolant level
>>>>>> is
>>>>>> certainly NOT LOW and hasn't been and so it might just be THAT,
>>>>>> air in
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> coolant system!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> So I'm gonna bleed the air one more time to see if this gets it
>>>>>> and let
>>>>>> it
>>>>>> flow from the screw in front for a longer period of time and see
>>>>>> if that
>>>>>> gets it. :o)
>>>>>> I've ordered a new sensor just in case the sensor could be
>>>>>> defective.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks everyone, I appreciate it!
>>>>>> Peace, Love & VW Grease,
>>>>>> Sunshine
>>>>>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>>>>> '89 Vanagon GL - Wolfsburg Weekender Edition ("Stella Blue")
>>>>>> *Daily
>>>>>> Driver*
>>>>>> '87 Vanagon GL ("Parts Van")
>>>>>> '77 Westfalia Bus ("Sunshine Daydream")
>>>>>> '74 Transporter Bus ("Buddy")
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If your coolant light is flashing either the coolant sensor is
>>>>>>> bad,
>>>>>>> the coolant is low, or there is air in the system.
>>>>>>> Regarding the buzzing, I may be wrong, but I seem to remember
>>>>>>> that my
>>>>>>> 87 GL would buzz when the coolant was low. But that's been
>>>>>>> several
>>>>>>> years and so I'm not entirely sure.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
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