Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 16:02:06 -0600
Reply-To: Tom Buese <tombuese@COMCAST.NET>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Tom Buese <tombuese@COMCAST.NET>
Subject: Re: flashing LED
In-Reply-To: <4d1b79350909091455j23c1001dp17d9e1b14f681eed@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
That sounds like a volk could make 1 even if they have been using the
bong preemptively?
Thanks for the description. A pic at your convenience(maybe post on
the wiki?) would be even better!
Pax,
Mr. BZ-makes moi want to change the coolant
On Sep 9, 2009, at 3:55 PM, Jim Felder wrote:
> I will send pictures if you like, but probably not necessary.
>
> As I said, you are using common plumbing parts to extend the neck of
> the filler bottle to a level higher than the top of the radiator. The
> implications should be obvious--gravity is going to bleed your system
> thoroughly in just a few minutes.
>
> Find a rubber plumbing reducer of a size that the smaller end fits
> over the neck of your tank. If you have a diesel that uses the old
> metal style caps, you will have to get an old cap and drill out all
> the stuff attached to the metal cap, so you just have the metal cap.
> Glue the rubber gasket to the underside, as there will be no springs
> or anything to hold it in. If you go the diesel route, you will epoxy
> a half-inch galvanized coupling onto the top of the cap to give the
> plumbing reducer something to clamp to. The top of the metal cap must
> have a hole through it, obviously.
>
> But for most of you without the diesel's original style tank, skip all
> that and read on.
>
> Into the top, wider end of the plumbing reducer, buy a two-foot piece
> of pvc pipe made to fit it and clamp it into place.
>
> Just above the rubber of the reducer, in the side of the pvc pipe,
> drill and tap for a nylon elbow with pipe threads at one end and a
> barbed 90 degree connection on the other. To this you will attach a
> length of clear plastic tubing. Put a coathanger wire s-hook to the
> end of the pipe with a hose clamp. this will allow you to hook the end
> of the tube to the open end of the pvc pipe.
>
> The clear plastic hose is important and serves two purposes. While it
> is attached to the pvc pipe, alongside the pipe, it allows you to
> observe the level and rate of change in the level of the water going
> into the system. This is a big convenience, especially when you're
> doing everything yourself. With the end of the hose unhooked and
> lowered into a jug or bottle, the apparatus can be emptied of all but
> the last inch or so of coolant above the tank in case the system gets
> full and you've got excess coolant in the bong..
>
> You first fill the tank and then attach the bong. Start the motor,
> open the heater, bypass, etc. as you normally would. Remove the
> radiator vent screw and add coolant. Mix the coolant in a gallon jug
> and use it to add. Keep adding as the level drops. You don't need to
> rev the engine. When it comes out of the radiator with no air, put the
> screw back in, remove the bong, replace the cap--the tank will be
> absolutely full--and go use the bong for something else.
>
> Five minutes, I tell you!
>
> It's great.
>
> Jim
>
> On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 4:35 PM, Tom Buese<tombuese@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> On Sep 9, 2009, at 3:31 PM, Jim Felder wrote:
>>
>>> Either all that, or for ten bucks you can build yourself a "Libby
>>> Bong" named for Andrew Libby on the diesel list who invented it. It
>>> creates a column for the coolant tank higher than the top of the
>>> radiator. 5 minutes, no muss no fuss. It's more difficult to create
>>> for the diesel than for the waterboxer, which is so simple it is a
>>> shame not to have one.
>>>
>>> I tried mine for the first time yesterday.
>>
>> Details of the Libby Bong?
>>
>> Mr. BZ-gotta have 1 just for the name
>>>
>>> Jim
>>>
>>> On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 7:07 AM, Warren Lail<wklail@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Sunshine,
>>>>
>>>> The only way to really bleed the WBX is to either raise the front
>>>> end
>>>> with a floor jack (pretty high in the air - be careful) or to
>>>> park on
>>>> a steep hill and bleed it while on the incline. The front end
>>>> needs
>>>> to be higher than one would think in order to get all the air
>>>> removed.
>>>> And then bleed it over several days because some trapped air will
>>>> eventually move forward. Of course, the engine needs to be warm
>>>> and
>>>> idling at the time.
>>>>
>>>> Good luck,
>>>>
>>>> Warren in Santa Fe
>>>> 88 Westy "Billy Bones"
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Sep 9, 2009 at 6:01 AM, Sunshine <vwbusgirl@kc.rr.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> After pondering everything and making sure there was coolant
>>>>> filled to
>>>>> the
>>>>> brim of the expansion tank (which it was), cleaning the coolant
>>>>> sensor
>>>>> and
>>>>> checking it's o-ring and snugging it back down with some ATV.....
>>>>>
>>>>> I began thinking that everything seemed to not go well after I
>>>>> had bled
>>>>> the
>>>>> coolant this last time and didn't really bleed it as long as I had
>>>>> previously from the radiator bleed screw on the front. Then I
>>>>> lost a
>>>>> tiny
>>>>> bit when I removed/installed the new thermo/temp switch on the
>>>>> radiator
>>>>> (this could have put air in the system as well). But the
>>>>> coolant level
>>>>> is
>>>>> certainly NOT LOW and hasn't been and so it might just be THAT,
>>>>> air in
>>>>> the
>>>>> coolant system!
>>>>>
>>>>> So I'm gonna bleed the air one more time to see if this gets it
>>>>> and let
>>>>> it
>>>>> flow from the screw in front for a longer period of time and see
>>>>> if that
>>>>> gets it. :o)
>>>>> I've ordered a new sensor just in case the sensor could be
>>>>> defective.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks everyone, I appreciate it!
>>>>> Peace, Love & VW Grease,
>>>>> Sunshine
>>>>> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>>>>> '89 Vanagon GL - Wolfsburg Weekender Edition ("Stella Blue")
>>>>> *Daily
>>>>> Driver*
>>>>> '87 Vanagon GL ("Parts Van")
>>>>> '77 Westfalia Bus ("Sunshine Daydream")
>>>>> '74 Transporter Bus ("Buddy")
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If your coolant light is flashing either the coolant sensor is
>>>>>> bad,
>>>>>> the coolant is low, or there is air in the system.
>>>>>> Regarding the buzzing, I may be wrong, but I seem to remember
>>>>>> that my
>>>>>> 87 GL would buzz when the coolant was low. But that's been
>>>>>> several
>>>>>> years and so I'm not entirely sure.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>
>>
| 
