Date:         Wed, 16 Sep 2009 17:24:19 -0400
Reply-To:     B Feddish <bfeddish@NETREACH.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         B Feddish <bfeddish@NETREACH.NET>
Subject:      Re: To use Bars Leaks or not.....
In-Reply-To:  <bf0.5b0284e4.37e2a6c8@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Sooo. I'm going to assume that "grindy", "bearing sounding" noise I've been
hearing all summer is my water pump. I've suspected it all along but wishful
thinking kept me thinking my newly rebuilt engine was just around the
corner. I picked up a new water pump at BD today when I was exhchaging my EV
muffler. I still have some short distance camping trips this fall so should
I'm deciding whether to just keep camping or replace the pump in the current
engine even though the engine comes out in 2 months.  It appears to be a
rediculously hard job to do myself and I'm not sure what a mechanic would
charge and if it's worth it.

Murphy's law will kick in now. Since I know about the pump and I'm ignoring
it I know what could happen.

Bryan

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Mark Dearing
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 4:39 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: To use Bars Leaks or not.....

In a message dated 9/16/2009 4:29:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
mbucchino@CHARTER.NET writes:

I  reiterate, if you don't want a catastrophic water pump failure, replace
the water pump.  No "leak stop" material, regardless of  brand, is going to
reverse or stop the water pump damage that is  causing the leak there.
Internal parts are worn, and they will  continue to wear until suddenly the
pump seizes.  When it does,  all hell will break loose.  If you remove the
worn pump, and  try to turn it by hand, you'll find that it turns with
difficulty  compared to a new pump, likely with a grinding feel when it
turns.  Bearings, shaft, something is damaged.
The leak is only  a sign of internal wear.