Date:         Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:40:40 -0700
Reply-To:     Al Knoll <anasasi@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Al Knoll <anasasi@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Shift rod freeplay - what is it? Was: Alternatives to
              standard transmissions: What is possible?
In-Reply-To:  <6acc6ca40909241545k2cd4a2a8l4e50aebf9abc60ac@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Some rebuild thoughts  also posted to groups.yahoo.subaruvanagon


A quality rebuild will include all new necessary gear pairs, all new
bearings including the hard to remove needle bearing that supports one end
of the mainshaft.  It will include the version 3 of the 3-4 slider hub, a
previously common failure.  It will include assessment of the ring and
pinion wear and re-shimming or replacement if necessary. You will have the
opportunity to change the ring and pinion to accomodate the newfound power
and torque vs rpm and if you're planning to upgrade the wheels to 15" you
should consider what gearset you might like to have.  Perhaps a higher 4th.
There are tools in the files area to help you decide.  For a little more
money you can install heavy duty "mineola" gears, stronger than the VAG sets
but noisier.  There may also be a choice of 'syncronizers'.  You can
research the group wisdom on lubricant suitable for your driving style.
Many choose Redline or Swepco.  You don't want to spend the money only to
wear out the transmission with an inappropriate lubricant.  For a top flight
job from AA, Transaxleengineering or German Transaxle or similar, you should
salt away 2000+US just for the rebuild parts and labor.  R&R is extra of
course.  It pays to have a quote rather than an estimate for the rebuild so
the expectations on both sides of the transaction are well understood before
the work starts.  It also pays to be sure what gearset you want and
communicate that on the workorder you sign before work begins.  This should
include a detailed written warranty in case things don't go as planned.

Be absolutely sure that the conversion shop or the re-installer of your
fresh transaxle understands the amount of fore and aft freeplay at the shift
rod when the transmission is installed.  My installer didn't and it cost me
another rebuild 1600 miles after the first rebuild.  Ugh.  Also you might
have them check the ball and socket wear on the 'peace pipe' and shifter
ball at the transmission.  Theyr'e exposed to the elements and wear out
causing shifting difficulties that could damage the rebuilt transmisson
internally.  Also you may want to consider upgrading the clutch system while
the transaxle is benched.  I have had good experiences with pressure plates
and clutch disks from K.E.P. (Hobert Kennedy) ask their recommendations they
are very knowledgeable on these matters.

Another side issue was discussed some time back regarding the two lower
bolts that hold the whole shebang together.  Be sure your installer uses SAE
grade 8 equivalent or Metric 10.9.  These two fasteners are critical as the
engine/transaxle is held together by these two bolts. If they stretch or
break under tension very expensive bad things happen.  My installer used an
insufficent grade of fastener costing me a fractured bellhousing.  The
bellhousing is magnalloy (grey metal) and not easily welded.  A search of
the archives in 2006 or so will help you understand.  If the bolts loosen
and you don't notice it can be much worse than just a fractured
bellhousing.  The problem being addressed  by the higher grade fasteners is
one of dynamic loading and yield of the bolt itself.  But all that is in the
notes.  I have some of the 10.9 longer bolts from the first order available
at cost + ship.  Many builders also replace the Kennedy studs with high
tensile throughbolts.  Leon Korkin on this list can help explain the
process.

Concerning horsepower and torque:  The main concern is torque and loading.
The 091 transaxle will handle any horsepower motor as long as you dont' USE
all that torque.  The stresses on the transaxle have to do with how it is
loaded by the demands of acceleration, towing, climbing and so on.  The
thrust you generate with the throttle that pushes you along is passed
through the transmission as torque.  The more torque you desire, the more
stresses on the innards, the faster it will wear out over time or the sooner
it will break.   Stronger gears can help.  Smoother driving can help,   Good
choice of lubricants can help.  In the end the transmission will wear out,
hopefully many years and many thousands of happy miles down the road.  My
original transmission and clutch went 148K miles.

I have personal excellent experiences with K.E.P,  AATransaxle,
Transaxleengineering, Weddle, and Tom Lengyel who did Warren's transmission
work.  I will be posting photos of the innards of my 094 transmission along
with comparative photos of the 3-4 slider hub and heavy duty vs standard
gears.  I can provide contact information on these folks if you like.

Good luck on your upcoming marriage.  Don't drive it like you stole it and
it'll be along time before she starts to whine about things.

Al





On 9/24/09, Luke Bakken <luke.bakken@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Be absolutely sure that the conversion shop or the re-installer of your
> fresh transaxle understands the amount of fore and aft freeplay at the shift
> rod when the transmission is installed.  My installer didn't and it cost me
> another rebuild 1600 miles after the first rebuild.
>
> Is this freeplay described in the Bentley anywhere or can you describe
> it to me? I had Daryl rebuild my transaxle and everything seems to be
> shifting fine since I put it back in about 1,000 miles ago, but I was
> not aware of this shift rod freeplay and how to check it.
>
> Thanks,
> Luke
>