Date:         Fri, 2 Oct 2009 16:37:32 +0000
Reply-To:     "John C..." <JCarp2001@COMCAST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         "John C..." <JCarp2001@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Throttle Idle RPM question
In-Reply-To:  <556656.22601.qm@web37302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

>>Specially the TEMP2 sender on the thermostat housing. 



I'll second that one! 

Strangely, I've been having a problem with 2K RPM's 

And it wasn't untiI I repaired a leaking hose 

coming off of the thermostat 

that the RPM problem was solved. 



The hose dripped right onto the sensor connector. 

Causing the rise in RPM's 



JC... 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joel Cort" <joel_cort@YAHOO.COM> 
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM 
Sent: Friday, October 2, 2009 8:30:05 AM GMT -07:00 US/Canada Mountain 
Subject: Re: Throttle Idle RPM question 

Before changing any settings or messing with the throttle,  check that all the wires are connected and not corroded. 

Specially the TEMP2 sender on the thermostat housing.  - I've had that fall off before due to corrosion. 
Also the Oxygen2 sensor on the exhaust manifold can cause some issues but should start and run, just run rich. 

Check the ground wires - good and shiny not corroded. 

Also if you have any exhaust leaks (hole in the manifolds or muffler pipes) you will have issues idling just right. 
 Joel Cort 






________________________________ 
From: Karl Wolz <wolzphoto@Q.COM> 
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM 
Sent: Thu, October 1, 2009 8:21:30 PM 
Subject: Re: Throttle Idle RPM question 

Better minds than mine may give you a better answer soon, but ... 

EFI, or electronic fuel injection, by definition controls most aspects of 
fuel injection electronically (no, I'm not making fun - it's just that 
basic).  Idle speed is also controlled by the big screw pointing up and back 
from the throttle body; as simple a physical thing as you might imagine. 
Back it out a bit and more air/fuel mixture gets to the engine.  A blocked 
air cleaner will restrict air flow to the engine, and could cause a lack of 
idle. 

If the engine is allowed to come up to normal operating temperature (run for 
a few minutes), is it more tempted to idle? 

Could be a vacuum leak. 

If it ran well when parked, it most likely should run now.  Fuel will 
degrade over time, but should not have to the extent that it will not idle 
at all.  I'd say "not likely". 

Did it run "well" with your foot on the gas?  Did it die immediately after 
you removed said foot, or did it linger and then poop out? 

Whereabouts are you?  There may be a knowledgeable list member who could 
give a listen. 

Checking FI ground connections not a bad idea, as Unca Joel said. 



-----Original Message----- 
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of 
Ramon Hill 
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 2:47 PM 
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM 
Subject: Re: Throttle Idle RPM question 

From this message below, am I to understand that the throttle RPM is somehow 
electrically controlled then? 
============================= 

{{ My daughter's 1986 (2.1) Vanagon (AKA: The Mystery Machine) has sat for 
about 6 to 8 months without being used (she is USAF & just returned home for 
a short break).  When I started it for her the other day it would not run 
unless I kept my foot on the accelerator pedal.  If I took my foot off, the 
idle speed would drop to zero & it would die.  No real problem with being 
smooth running or anything, it just has no idle setting now.  Anyone care to 
comment as to what may have happened?  It was running fine before the period 
of non use.}} 


======================================================================== 
-----Original Message----- 
From: joel walker [mailto:uncajoel@bellsouth.net] 
Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 1:29 PM 
To: Ramon Hill 
Subject: Re: Throttle Idle RPM question 

Do the cheap stuff first, and in this case, the most likely stuff ... 

Pull each fuse out of the fuse box, clean the contacts on the fuse and push 
it back into the fuse box. Pull it out again and push it back. do that about 
three times on each fuse. 

Corrosion can set up on the exposed metal and cause electrical gremlins in 
cars that sit a while, especially in humid climates. 

In the engine area, pull each brown wire off and clean the contacts and put 
it back and make sure it's tight onto its connector. do one wire at a time, 
so you remember where it came off. ;)  The fuel injection is VERY sensitive 
to bad electrical grounds. 

Also on the coolant temp sensor, on the thermostat, kinda in the 
front/left/driver corner of the engine compartment, but "outside", kinda 
under the cargo deck, the sensor is sticking out sideways toward the left 
rear wheel ... press down on the long-side silver wire (check the fuel 
injectors for a clearer idea of what you're dealing with) and that springs 
out the side clips and you can wiggle the connector off. Clean the contacts 
and put it back. 

Do the same with the idle stabilizer valve ... that brass-colored cylinder 
in the middle right of the engine, with two black hoses going to it, and one 
electrical connector at one end ... Unclip the wiring connector and clean 
the contacts. 

All those things together might actually solve the problem, but at the very 
least, it'll keep the problem from hiding behind bad contacts. 

good luck! 
joel