Date:         Fri, 16 Oct 2009 13:22:01 -0700
Reply-To:     John Anderson <wvukidsdoc@YAHOO.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Anderson <wvukidsdoc@YAHOO.COM>
Subject:      Seam rust repair tips WAS (Re: is primer/sealer weathertight?)
In-Reply-To:  <82769c7e0910160738l42ac49eep417a800cf705ec18@mail.gmail.com>
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Worth mentioning that POR (at least in the day but last I used it was 15 years ago) was particularly not UV stabilized, and needed topcoated quickly, I haven't used it in years, though am tempted to on my Triumph TR4A floor, but still believe in clean metal and PPG stuff so stick with it.
 
As I've mentioned to me at least, PPG DP40/90 etc are still the best.  I have rims I painted as a topcoat and used every day for 15 years still perfect and rust free, a buddy has a 1970 Chevy 4x4 frame he painted and uses every day of every winter in western MD, that he did 10 years ago, still like new and unlike powdercoat if it does get scraped, you just spot fix it.  Now that is the old "with lead" formulation, but I still trust it, even the DP40 LF stuff.  Even though it is NOT an etching primer, and PPG has a good etching primer, I still metal etch seperately and use the DP40 to this day.
 
Some tips on the initial question as well (seam rust.)  Make a little sharp flat scraper tool with a reverse angled hook, I take a bit of 1/16" x 1/2" steel, about the width of the seams, grind a reverse notch into it, looking like a plexiglass cutter it you know what that looks like, having a bit of taper on the 1/16" dimension and use it to pull/peel the old rust and sealer out of the seams.  Scrape em clean, mask and sand blast, metal prep, then BRUSH IN a coat of DP40, your POR, or whatever you will use for basecoat.  2-3 coats WITH A BRUSH into the seam, spraying with your touch up gun light coats on the surface after each brushing.  You will never spray into a seam sufficiently.  (same applies when repainting steel wheels, BTW, crack out a disposeable "acid" flux brush for the joint)  Then a GOOD QUALITY seam sealer, 3M products always a good bet, let it cure, for DAYS, then a topcoat or two of DP40.  As I've mentioned with DP40 at least you
 could leave it that way forever, and eventually get around to scuffing and topcoating whenever, if using something else, scuff and topcoat immediately.
 
I've had bus and vanagon seams I've repaired like this then driven in WV salted winters that still looked new 10 years on, probably 3-4 years longer than even the factory seams lasted in the same climate.
 
John

--- On Fri, 10/16/09, Jim Lieb <jlieberie@GMAIL.COM> wrote:

I agree Frank POR is great. I have also used Rust Bullet, it's not bad
either and like POR don't get it on your skin. lol.