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Date:         Sat, 17 Oct 2009 00:57:17 -0700
Reply-To:     Rob <becida@COMCAST.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Rob <becida@COMCAST.NET>
Subject:      Re: Friday - engine stand suggestions
Comments: To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
In-Reply-To:  <4d1b79350910161738o63fd84cbrc4bd74c9f52c83ce@mail.gmail.co m>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx Talks about bolt strength. What you have been doing works, <shrug> I can't see a problem.

Rob becida@comcast.net

At 10/16/2009 05:38 PM, Jim Felder wrote: >1/4-20 threads x 3 supporting a 200-300 lb engine is way, way under >the strength of all-thread. I've been doing it this way for years with >waterboxer and diesel engines. They just aren't that heavy. That's 100 >pounds or less on each rod. If this is faulty reasoning, I want to >know about it, though. > >Jim > > > >On Fri, Oct 16, 2009 at 7:04 PM, Mike <mbucchino@charter.net> wrote: > > I wouldn't recommend the use of all-thread to support your engine. It's > > only rated Grade 5 and it's simply not strong enough to trust. Use minimum > > Grade 8.8 metric automotive nuts, bolts and washers. > > You don't want to get hurt or drop your engine, either. > > > > Mike B. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Jim Felder > > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 7:48 PM > > Subject: Re: Friday - engine stand suggestions > > You can use three arms of a cheap 4-arm stand and 4 or 6 inch iron > > pipe sections with all-thread run through and the appropriate nuts and > > washers. > > > > If you use standoffs that are long enough, you can get enough room to > > work on the clutch and flywheel. > > > > Jim


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