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Date:         Thu, 5 Nov 2009 11:55:55 -0800
Reply-To:     Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Subject:      round headlight/grill install in '86 van
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

hi,

managed to get some time to swap in round headlight grill on my '86.

some points to get out of the way first:

van came with stock square headlight set up. previous owner had installed 100 W inner high beam bulb and added extra ground wires to chassis. no relays found. the square light grill is in perfect condition and i don't mind the "look" of the set up, but god, the light it produces is really bad, esp. low-beams. I had put upgraded H4s with relays on my '82 years ago and i knew just how much better a set up that is.

- I bought 2 Hella h4 lamps from Malahat auto wreckers. came with 65/55 W bulbs and were in excellent (nearly new) shape. Ca$20 each - I bought a round light grill from a fellow listing snow tires on used Victoria (I bought the Nokian Hakkapellittas CS too). grill has a couple of chips in slats.

procedure:

- checked wiring diagrams, noted the wiring colour codes same, i.e. yellow, white, yellow with black, white with black, and of course brown for ground. - unscrewed square light mounting frames and cut wires. The inner high beam lamps do not confuse the swap issue, they are "jumped" to high beam wire. - spliced in H4 connector to wires - screwed in round light frames. The outboard screw holes in body same as in the square units, the inboard holes used in round frame are there, but are not used in square frame. - offered up new grill to body and noted that lower inboard mounting hole (for square frame) on a riveted sheet metal tab interfered with grill. Drilled out rivets and removed tab. - also noted that grill attachment point, the one just inboard or light frame, is supplied by the square light frame on the '86. On the '82 that point is a sheet metal tab welded to body. On the '86 there are pressings in the body locating that tab, but no tab. I will have to rivet or screw tab to '86 body. - attached grill as is with those mounting tabs not in place yet. Grill a little loose, ok as is for now.

And by god, the lights work when switched on :), and not badly aligned.

My next steps are to swap my relays over from the '82 and perhaps pop in the 100/80 bulbs I used to use. But to tell you the truth, the 65/55 W bulbs and the nice "made in Sweden" Hellas are pretty good as is. Miles better than the squares.

Couple of other points:

- One of the Hellas came with its rubber moisture boot. This one has 2 tube outlets for drainage, never seen that before. My old H4s (Bosch) had plain old boots - Seeing as I had recently re-discovered my jar of anhydrous lanolin, I used that as "dielectric grease" instead of my usual Dow Corning silicon grease. I'll see if it does the job as well. I know the lanolin creeps, it might work better as an anticorrosion treatment in the splices. Yes, I used butt connectors as I plan on installing headlight relays up near lights this time, as opposed to the fuse box location, and i will be re-cutting the wires. I'll run a power feed up there and thus remove the short run of stock wire from fuse box to lights. I bet tis not really that much of a concern, the stock wiring run from fuse box to lights. Indeed I retained that run in my '82 when i was using relays and 100/80 W lights. I had no problem with melting wires :) and I don't recall a noticeable voltage drop.

Alistair

'86 syncro 7 passenger '82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94 http://www.members.shaw.ca/albell/


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