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Date:         Wed, 6 Jan 2010 14:43:19 -0500
Reply-To:     Jonathan Poole <jfpoolio@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jonathan Poole <jfpoolio@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: heading through the deep south soon, anyone on my route?
Comments: cc: Joy Hecht <jhecht@ALUM.MIT.EDU>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Hello Joy,

I grew up in Mississippi and have been taking trips in the area in my various Westfalias for many years. Nowadays I spend most of my time in NC, SC and other more distant areas (full-timing in my 83 westy) but I still know plenty of "Deep South" spots. I'm visiting family in N. MS/ W. TN for a few more weeks before heading to the east coast again but I'm guessing you'll pass to the South of me due to the cold weather. I can be a damp and biting cold throughout the "South" but also equally mild and pleasant in the winter months. Hopefully you'll be lucky with the weather. You are coming at a good time to visit though as the bugs and sticky wet heat won't be the problem that they are for much of the year.

As for spots to visit, I'm not sure what you are interested beyond the Kayaking but there is a lot of water around from rivers to lakes so you will be able to get out everyday if you want to. I recommend getting off of the interstate from time to time to see some of the rural countryside down here. It won't look too much different from other parts of the country but you may see more small, poor towns than you usually see. Look for excuses to meet the locals in these places and you'll hear some great accents and meet a lot of folks that haven't travelled far from that locale in their lifetime. Of course this is isn't unique to the South but these backwater towns are often the most fun for me to travel through wherever I am.

Food in the "Deep South" may provide more of a unique experience for you. Even if you live here, good Southern/Home cooking can be a bit hard to find but if nothing else the search is a lot of fun. Some of my favorite places over the years have featured a daily variety of home cooked veggies, good tea, great rolls, some carnivorous delight and of course awesome, heavy deserts. Much of the truly local cuisine is deep fried or rich and heavy. As you travel accross the region stop at the older dirtier looking (but well worn) BBQ joints. You should notice a slowly trending evolution of BBQ styles (sometimes most evident in the sauces) as you move South. You will see vinegar, tomato and mustard bases sauces etc. in different availabilities and formulations. The slaw also changes and can be unexpectedly good. I could list a bunch of spots to look for but one place that stands out for me is a place called Hamils (sp?) in MS. just North of Jackson near the Natchez Trace. In my opinion it is worth detouring to Jackson for a few meals at Hamils before doing some driving on the Trace which can be very nice. You can also find ethnic cuisine of high quality in some towns where international transplants have landed. Most of the Chinese or Mexican restaurants however will serve the same food so avoid those. The exception to this is that increasingly in the past few years authentic Mexican food is popping up,, look for the Spanish writing and speaking.. These true Mexican places are often small and in trailers and such.

Along the Natchez trace you will see some historic architecture etc. and it is a relaxing road to drive. Also in MS. Vicksburg is an interesting town (in my opinion). There is a lot of civil war history there and it is on the MS. river which is also worth a visit. You may even want to venture onto the MS. River in your kayak but choose your location wisely as there are strong currents and plenty of commercial barge traffic. I spent a lot of time on the river growing up and still love to go spend time around it. North of Vicksburg is the MS. Delta, a unique part of the South and of MS. The Delta is largely rural and agricultural and in my opinion you can see into the past there both good and bad. The Delta of MS. (North of Vicksburg, South of Memphis on the MS River) reminds me a lot of the SC coast (mostly culturally and economically) if you have been there. The landscape is flat and beautiful to many, the sunsets are always great.

New Orleans is of course a fun and interesting place to visit and you may find it interesting to investigate the coastal areas to see how the rebuilding from Hurricane Katrina is going (yes they are still rebuilding).

Alabama has some beautiful natural areas in the Northern part of the state that are the last traces of the appalachian mountains that run down the East coast. etc. etc. etc. I'll stop here on places to visit but let me know if you have any other questions.

A few other things to note. There probably aren't going to be a lot of Vanagon knowledgeable mechs. on your route. Also, a lot of the small towns that I describe may be more dangerous crime wise than small towns that you are used to. Theft is the most likely crime that you will encounter and please park in safe areas (when you leave your van) in these places and camp wisely. I've never had anything stolen but I grew up down here and may be a bit more careful than some. I know of plenty of stories though and would hate for you to add one to the list. The worst was when a friend of mine came to visit and had two very nice bikes stolen off of his car in daylight at a busy gas station in my home town, he never came to visit again. Anyway, you get the idea.

Have a great trip and let me know when you are coming through, our paths may cross..

Jonathan Poole


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