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Date:         Wed, 13 Jan 2010 09:27:20 -0500
Reply-To:     mcneely4@COX.NET
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@COX.NET>
Subject:      Re: Motor Oil (Synthetic)
Comments: To: Tom Hargrave <thargrav@hiwaay.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed; delsp=no

Well, for what it's worth, when consumer reports, using modern nonsynthetic oils, ran vehicles under severe conditions in New York City, and extended the oil change interval long beyond the factory recommendations, they found no difference in wear compared to engines that were treated according to factory recommendations.

I still change oil every 3,000 miles, and use the factory recommended oil.

Dave Mc

On Tue, Jan 12, 2010 at 4:57 PM, Tom Hargrave wrote:

> There was a time when oil manufacturers all used their own base stock > and base stocks from different manufacturers were different depending > on the oil source. For example, we used to call Quaker State oil > "Caker State" because their base oil's high paraffin content caused > serious sludge problems. > > But these days they all use the same base stock that is bought from > whatever refinery is pumping today with the only difference being the > viscosity modifiers and additive packages. One other point that most > don't realize is - to qualify for a SAE rating, your oil must be able > to blend with all other SAE oils with absolutely no issues. Plus SAE > ratings limit the level of many additives such as zinc, etc. The end > result is that except for expensive performance lubricants with extra > "stuff" added, most SAE rated oils of a given viscosity rating are > pretty much the same. In other words, everyone's SAE rated 5W30 oil is > produced to a very narrow set of standards. The rest is just marketing > and I wonder if even some of the expensive performance lubricants are > just marketing hype. > > There are exceptions - synthetics and diesel rated oils. Synthetic > base oils require less viscosity modifiers which is a good thing > because viscosity modifiers tend to cause ring coking problems. Also, > synthetic oils stay stable across a much broader temperature range > then Dino oil, and this is good in the Northern states in the winter & > in the deep south in the summer. > > Diesel oils have a much more robust additive package because of the > demands diesel engines put on their oil. And the additional additives > are probably good for any hard working gas engine. > > For my money I run synthetic oils in anything newer like the 2 Jeep's > we own and I run diesel oil in everything else, diesel or gas, > motorcycle or car. I don't have a clue if it makes a difference, I > don't believe that anyone knows if it makes a difference. > > Thanks, Tom Hargrave > 256-656-1924 > > Our Web Sites: > www.kegkits.com > www.stir-plate.com > www.andyshotsauce.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On > Behalf Of Dave Mcneely > Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 2:30 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: Motor Oil (Synthetic) > > I've had both Toyota and Honda mechanics recommend Pennzoil 10W30 to > me also, even though both manufacturers have their own house oil. > Actually seems a little odd, since Pennzoil is now a made for the > discount and fast oil change outlets brand. However, I have used it > for many years, for all my vehicles except the VW camper (Castrol > 20W50 there), and have had good success, so I'll stick with it. Dave > > > On Tue, Jan 12, 2010 at 2:04 PM, Joel Cort wrote: > >> Hi, no! another oil discussion!! >> >> I run Valvoline 20-50 Full synthetic motor oil in my stock 2.1Ltr. >> Boston Bob rebuilt engine. This engine now has about 15K miles on it >> and runs real strong. I have found this oil to be good for cold >> Rochester engine starts and hot summer/freeway driving as well. >> >> I discoverred this weight and this oil previously with a 120K stock >> engine that was showing low oil pressure at hot idle. I changed the >> oil and put in the Valvoline full synthetic and symptons went away. >> So this works for me. I had tried the Mobil1 full synthetic prior to >> Valvoline and did not see much difference from the regular dino-oil. >> I would still get the flickering oil pressure light at idle. Of >> course with the approved MANN or whatever oil filter. >> >> Oh yeah I also have a Canadian block heater on this engine. Nice and >> compact and does the job well. I've only used it a couple of times >> since my engine kicks over with a couple of cranks even wen it was a >> warm 8 degrees F here in Rochacha. Smells funny when you do turn it >> on from oil drips burning up. >> >> On my Subaroos H-4 and H-6, I specifically run Pennzoil 10W30 >> dinosaur oil as recommended by a long time suby master mechanic in >> this area. He says that all oil lubricate but Pennzoil also has the >> right cleaning agent or whatever... All this guy does is Subys and he >> swears by Pennzoil .. thats all. His father-in-law is the North >> American rep for Subaru so he may have some insights on what he is >> talking about. >> Happy Camping, >> >> jcort@rochester.rr.com >> 89 Syncro Westy (VanGo) >> 87 Syncro Transporter (Stella) >> 73 Westy Campmobile (Agent Orange) Western New York Founding member >> of the Westies@Watkins IX is set for October 7-8-9-10, 2010 >> >> >> ________________________________ >> From: Stephen Cebula To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM >> Sent: Mon, January 11, 2010 2:46:05 PM >> Subject: Motor Oil (Synthetic) >> >> What motor oils you you all use out there? A friend of mine keeps >> pushing synthetic oil. He's a Ford man, and not familiar with >> Vanagons. What's the rap on that? >> Steve >> >> >> >> www.westies-at-watkins.orgEmpire State VW Camping >> Clubwww.empirevwcamping.orgJoel CortRochester NY >> joel_cort@yahoo.comLiMBO Respresentativewww.limbobus.org


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