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Date:         Mon, 18 Jan 2010 19:45:33 -0600
Reply-To:     Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Waterpump and exhaust and rust - Oh my!
Comments: To: Aaron <a.robinson.lists@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <BD04F8CC-7E77-46D6-AE72-01396ABCE192@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I'm going to have to recommend one of my favorite recent tool acquisitions, the erwin removers that have a reverse spiral set of teeth in them that you hammer onto a rounded/rusted bolt and then the teeth bite more the harder the thing is backed out.

Don't be afraid to use heat to loosen nuts, a lot more effective than penetrating oil. A good nutcracker works well, as does an angle grinder. But a stud remover and don't mess with vise grips.

Jim

On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 7:29 PM, Aaron <a.robinson.lists@gmail.com> wrote: > Well I'm doing fairly well. 6 of 8 studs removed without too much trouble. Now I'm to the last 2. 1 is a full length stud that is mangled (I had to cut off the nut) and the other is about 1/2" leftover of the bolt that sheared off. My vice grips are of the "cheap" kind and don't seem to hold the studs well enough to turn them. So hopefully if I can source a better tool and will be home-free with no drilling needed. > > I've moved on to the water pump until I figure out how to get the ast 2 studs out. Suggestions are appreciated. > > This would be fun if I didn't have better things to do! > Aaron > > > On Jan 18, 2010, at 2:29 PM, Angus Gordon wrote: > >> I'll add to what Andrew suggested - tapping. Find a socket you can fit with >> a hammer, then give it two minutes of tapping to loosen up the rust. I've >> removed unrecognizable rusted exhaust nuts/bolts this (slow) way with no >> damage. >> >> >> Angus Gordon >> Bainbridge Island WA >> >> birdworks@gmail.com >> >> >> On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 1:46 PM, Andrew Philbrick <herrschildkrote@gmail.com >>> wrote: >> >>> Hey Aaron, >>> >>> Two things that have always helped me with rusty bolts are a set of damaged >>> bolt removers and some PB Blaster.  Rust is quite common in my neck of the >>> woods so I've dealt with quite a bit of rusted exhausted. >>> >>> The bolt removers are here - >>> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P?keyword=bolt+out They >>> are not too expensive and cover most of the sizes you'll need.  PB Blaster >>> can be found in most hardware and auto parts stores here.  If not, their >>> site is http://www.pbblaster.com/.  Thirdly, I like using vice grips to >>> get >>> the studs out.  Sometimes the studs come out with the bolt but sometimes >>> they don't.  Removing rusted exhaust is never an easy job so patience >>> should >>> be your friend. >>> >>> Also, be careful using the plumber's torch.  Similarly to removing spark >>> plugs when the engine is warm, if you heat up the aluminum head, it is >>> possible to strip out the threads. >>> >>> Andrew >>> >>> >>> >>> On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 3:10 PM, Aaron <a.robinson.lists@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> So my first questions in this undertaking are: >>>> What's the easiest way to remove a rusty exhaust (especially the studs in >>>> the heads)? Is there some special secret? Some tool that turns a helping >>> of >>>> inept-ness with a few tools into success? >>>> >>>> I have a gently used exhaust, new gaskets and bolts waiting. I just need >>> to >>>> figure out the easiest method of getting the old one out of the way. I >>> have >>>> available: a plumber's torch, wrenches & sockets, hacksaw and a waning >>>> desire to not pay someone else to do it. >>>> >>>> Thanks! >>>> Aaron >>>> '87 westy (in WA with van from Illinois) >>> >


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