Vanagon EuroVan
Previous messageNext messagePrevious in topicNext in topicPrevious by same authorNext by same authorPrevious page (January 2010, week 3)Back to main VANAGON pageJoin or leave VANAGON (or change settings)ReplyPost a new messageSearchProportional fontNon-proportional font
Date:         Thu, 21 Jan 2010 12:41:19 -0800
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: Blinking coolant light - fixed
Comments: To: John Meeks <vanagon@GMAIL.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=original

re "A new sensor w/ o-ring is < $8 @ van-cafe."

this is van cafe's page showing a real OE sensor for $ 24,30 and they say that's the only one they've found really works and lasts well. http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/smartlist_227/level_sensor.html

I bought one recently. Then I started checking prices and what's avaiable. I have access to two different types. one is 'the cheap type'.........that I get from a wholesale supplier. They cost me a rediculously low price .......like how can they possibly make any part, package it and ship it for that low a price ? . the $ 8 one mentioned might be one of those.

and I've had trouble with those sensors too - either just not staying firmly in the bottle, or splitting in the thread area and popping ( or blasting if the coolant is hot and well pressurized ) right out of the threaded hole in the coolant pressure bottle., < and if that happens with the engine cover removed .......Iv'e seen that spray a fine mist of coolant all over the entire interior of the van even . >

not trying to sell any parts here, but in other price checking I found out I can get OE ones, for now anyway , at a decent price.

also ......... not to make a big deal of it ....... from John's write up online : "If your expansion tank (Not the overflow tank that you check through the license plate door) is full of coolant, check the level sensor by pulling the sensor connector from the tank and shorting the two connectors inside the plug. If the light stops flashing you might have a bad sensor."

If I am reading that correctly, it states that jumpering together the two pins of the connector that plugs onto the level sensor will make the LED stay off.

What I have found is that jumpering the two pins will make the LED flash. At least on an 84 it will. In other words, either disconnnecting the level sensor plug, or jumpering it's two pins togehter, , either one, will make the LED flash.

if one wants to trick the circuit into thinking the level sesning part is OK.........then jumpering it with a resistor will trick the circuit up front into thinking the level sensing part is OK. Can't say for sure on later models, but on an 84 it's like that.

84 is a 'tricky year' about that sensing thing in that if the level portion goes off, it pegs the temp needle. This is fixed in 85 and later with a different control unit I believe. On those if the level sensor goes off, the needle still reads what the real coolant temp is. . Mr M. D. and others know the details of this better than I do, but I would try to get the later control unit if that's an easy fix.

I had an 84 that one minute after start up, the light would flash, the needle would peg, and I knew it wasn't overheating that quickly of course. My quick and temporary 'fix' on that one was to jumper the two pins on the level sensor connector with a resistor. The value of the resistor doesn't even seem to matter much. Might have been 5 ohms or something, maybe 10, but it wasn't picky about what value resistor. Many cars don't have a level sensing function, just temp sensing. Since I believe in checking things in the engine compartment frequently, it's fine with me to have only temp sensing function. An overactive warning system isn't fun to have, and can even trick you .........it could actually be low on coolant, but since 'oh, that light is going off all the time anyway' ......you are tricked into a false sense of ok-ness, when perhaps it's really not ok that one time. Currently on all my vanagons, the level sensing function is intact and working properly.

last thought................... I have not done this myself, but I have read about a subaruvanagon conversion-ist, who put a pressure guage on his cooling system. ( o to 25 psi would be about right, perhaps 0 to 20 ) . Cooling system pressure should run around 14 psi or so fully warmed up. If it starts dropping ........you consider if there's a leak happening. If it gets extra high, you start wondering if the pressure cap isn't releasing pressure when it should or if t-hermostat is stuck closed etc. Combustion gases getting into the coolant via a bad headgasket might also show up this way - possibly. I' not sure that it would actually....but it might. I thought that was kinda clever - the pressure guage on the cooling system thing.

Scott turbovans

----- Original Message ----- From: "John Meeks" <vanagon@GMAIL.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 7:22 PM Subject: Re: Blinking coolant light - fixed

Jake,

Put an ohmmeter on the sensor leads. I'd bet it reads high resistance. A new sensor w/ o-ring is < $8 @ van-cafe.

On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 9:57 PM, Jake de Villiers < crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com> wrote:

> Nice write-up John. My '84 needs this, as at this time of year the blinky > light stays on until the van is warm enough (the capacitor is warm > enough?) > to hold electricity. > > I just ignore the damn thing in the wintertime since I am confident that > the van hasn't lost all its coolant overnight! =) > > Seeya, Jake > > > On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 6:25 PM, John Meeks <vanagon@gmail.com> wrote: > >> Hello Van Pilots, >> >> The symptom: coolant light would do it's normal diagnostic blinking, then >> a >> few seconds later would start blinking continuously till the engine ran a >> bit and was restarted. >> >> This winter my coolant light started blinking when the air temp got down >> to >> 30°F when last winter it had to get down to about 5° F. I shrewdly >> discerned >> a trend. So naturally I went about fixing the problem completely opposite >> than what logic would suggest. >> >> Removed the temp guage from the tach cluster and performed a successful >> capacitor transplant. Feeling pretty good, I reassembled the the whole >> thing and fired up. blink...blink...blink... arrgh. Checked the level >> sensor and yep, way out of spec. >> MegaOhms. DOH!! >> >> Anyway I wrote it all up with logic and pictures and put it on the web: >> http://www.vanagonauts.com/Warning-Light-Fix241.htm >> >> Comments welcome. >> >> John Meeks >> '91 Multivan >> Northern Michigan >> >> Vanagon Rescue Squad >> http://www.vanagonauts.com/Vanagon_Rescue_Squad74.htm >> >> Radio Call:KC8ZFN >> > > > > -- > Jake > > 1984 Vanagon GL > 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie" > > Crescent Beach, BC > > www.thebassspa.com > www.crescentbeachguitar.com > http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27 > >


Back to: Top of message | Previous page | Main VANAGON page

Please note - During the past 17 years of operation, several gigabytes of Vanagon mail messages have been archived. Searching the entire collection will take up to five minutes to complete. Please be patient!


Return to the archives @ gerry.vanagon.com


The vanagon mailing list archives are copyright (c) 1994-2011, and may not be reproduced without the express written permission of the list administrators. Posting messages to this mailing list grants a license to the mailing list administrators to reproduce the message in a compilation, either printed or electronic. All compilations will be not-for-profit, with any excess proceeds going to the Vanagon mailing list.

Any profits from list compilations go exclusively towards the management and operation of the Vanagon mailing list and vanagon mailing list web site.