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Date:         Fri, 5 Feb 2010 14:19:53 -0800
Reply-To:     Matthew Thyer <matt_thyer@HOTMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Matthew Thyer <matt_thyer@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Converting Vanagon to Audi 15" Rims
Comments: To: ealundberg74@yahoo.com
In-Reply-To:  <28F02911-E995-43BB-A31F-BE804CF60431@yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Thanks everyone, Just got word back from the diesel mechanic that the timeing is off. They're going to address a couple of other issues around the engine box as well. I'll see what can be done about these wheels next.

-- Matt Thyer

---------------------------------------- > Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 21:08:38 -0800 > From: ealundberg74@YAHOO.COM > Subject: Re: Converting Vanagon to Audi 15" Rims > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > > I'm going to echo Ben's comments, those CLK wheels are excellent. Forged aluminum is incredibly strong, much stronger than the steel wheels. Additionally, the CLKs weigh 13lbs. each, as opposed to 26lbs. each for the popular 16" Mercedes 8-hole replicas. That's a 13 pound difference per wheel, or 52 pounds overall. May not sound like much, but anytime there is a reduction in unsprung weight and rotational force, you are improving the acceleration, braking, and handling of the vehicle. Perhaps more noticeable on a sports car, but I like to take every advantage I can get... and boy do these vans need it. > > Keep the wheels you have, and possibly consider spacers. On a 2wd you might want a 7mm set of spacers up front to put you at roughly ET 30mm. This will give you all the clearance you require, and even allow you to move up in tire size should you ever want to in the future. > > On a safety note, check to make certain you have the proper lug nuts. Often times the wrong ones are used and this could lead to potentially disastrous issues (not trying to scare anyone, just don't want a wheel to work loose while underway). You'll need the 22mm ball seat lug nut. The stock alloys and many aftermarket alloys use the tapered seat, and the stock steelies use a 26mm ball seat. Neither are the correct one. Check the Samba wheel thread, or contact Chris (Loogy on the Samba) at T3Techniques and he'll set you up with whatever you need for a reasonable price. Very knowledgeable and has quality stuff. > > Erik > > > On Feb 4, 2010, at 5:51 PM, BenT Syncro wrote: > >> On Thu, Feb 4, 2010 at 2:34 PM, Matthew Thyer wrote: >> >>> When I was getting Zeno up on the tow truck bed this morning I noticed that >>> there's not much space between the front wheel armiture and the tires. I >>> know I've got non-factory rims, wondering now if the PO didn't address this >>> issue and I might need to invest in some spacers or new rims. Wondering if >>> I'd be happier with stamped 15" steel wheels than what's on there now? >>> >>> http://tinyurl.com/y96ebxx <-- What I've got today, new tires >>> >>> http://tinyurl.com/y8l4ne2 <-- What I'm considering >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Matt Thyer >>> >> >> >> Matt, >> >> Those wheels are just fine. They are forged aluminum alloys which original >> cost thousands on Mercedes cars. They originally came with lugholes for 12mm >> bolts and had to have been drilled for 14mm studs and bolts. They are >> perfectly delighted to be on a Syncro and quite tolerable on a 2wd. Even >> with tires, they weigh less than the bare 14" steel rims. Even worse for the >> larger wheels. GoWesty looks to me selling South African steel wheels. I did >> not look but they also used to sell 14" steel wheel centers welded onto 15" >> rims. The latter will not fit big brake kits. >> >> If I had to choose between steel or alloys, I would pick the CLK alloys you >> have on there now. IIRC, the offset is arond ET37. You can always add >> spacers up front if you want to correct the offset. It's very easy to just >> get longer bolts. You shouldn't need longer studs in the rears. If you use >> spacers up front, I have access to Wolfsburg billet caps for those wheels. >> Pmail me. >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> -- >> BenT


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