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Date:         Mon, 1 Feb 2010 19:57:03 -0800
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: PDXRe: Pdx Machine Shop Recommendation?
Comments: To: Sudhir Desai <sudhir.desai@GMAIL.COM>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="UTF-8"; reply-type=original

the wheel balancing equipment requirement was right on.

the hole has to be precisely circular, and precisely round, and dead on center. Some lathe type operation, of turning the wheel, as one would resurface a brake drum ... seems to be the only naturally correct way to do it to me.

like it has to be within one thousandth's of true I'd say. ..005 " would be a mile off. you're talking about 4 wheels that need to be perfectly round and balanced at 80 mph.

you know, if it was a water pump pulley ....perhaps not so critical. but wheels and tires are critical.

when it comes to safety type things ... it's more black and white.

it's either within the standard and spec of what is consider safe, or it's not. Like you retire a climbing rope after 4 falls,... or one year...regardless of how it looks or feels, if you are practicing safety methods. black and white - it's either within bounds of what is considered safe, or it is not. Helicopter blades, jet engine turbine blades etc. etc. ...all retired after so many hours of operation, period. I suggest thinking that way on critical items.

in Germany each and every automotive tuner and custom part has to be certified. There's no just making headers and offering them to the public willy nilly. same for custom wheels and suspension etc.

just do it right. Probably the worst that could happen is you'd ruin the wheels, or make them so they could never be balanced perfectly by doing a hokey homemade job on them.

find a not-so-fancy shop. I found a guy who machines things at home in his shop, and old retired guy. He charged me 10 bucks to modify a crank pulley on his lathe. No complaints there. though in this case the size of the wheel may make it harder to find a lathe or milling machine or whatever that will accommodate that size.

damn I am glad my south African steel 15 inch wheels are REAL Vanagon wheels !

most people think brakes are the most critical system on any car. they are not, steering is. Ability to maintain directional control of the vehicle comes before being able to slow it down. I doubt wheels are likely to brake or fall off, causing loss of control... but ......just do it really right. It's the considerate and smart thing to do.

you know, if it was part of the say ...radio .....so what. but where the rubber touches the road .......your life is right there. do that part right, just do it right. I'll be quiet now.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Sudhir Desai" <sudhir.desai@GMAIL.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 7:29 PM Subject: Re: PDXRe: Pdx Machine Shop Recommendation?

I would think if the piece is securely fastened to the work surface, and properly centered, a newer drill press could do the job quite well (compared to a metal lathe, or a cnc mill).

sudhir

On Mon, Feb 1, 2010 at 22:23, pdooley <psdooley@verizon.net> wrote: > Don't forget the part about precision needed for wheel balance machines. > I would trust a metal lathe over a hole saw for that. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of > Cunegonde > Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 9:52 PM > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM > Subject: Re: PDXRe: Pdx Machine Shop Recommendation? > > Is the router bit and template for use with a router or a drill press? > I don't have a router and bit extension, but can get to a drill press. > I also have a plethora of bi-metallic hole saws up past 2 1/2" = > 660mm. And cutting oil/machining lube. > >> From: Don Hundt <dhundt@BENDBROADBAND.COM> >> Subject: Re: PDX Machine Shop Recommendation? >> >> With a plywood template centered over the hole and a pattern (top >> bearing) >> router bit like this, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5411 >> one >> could do a pretty clean job. >> Don >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Jake de Villiers" >>> A 1/2" shankcarbide router bit works very well on aluminium, but >>> its not a >>> job for a neophyte! =) >


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