Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 18:08:53 -0600
Reply-To: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jim Felder <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Check my head?
In-Reply-To: <CD3C1654-4269-4CF1-8141-D9E2E151921C@sheilah.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I followed the thread about porting some time back. I would be leery
of a mechanic who would even recommend porting a vangon head.
You should be getting a lot more than 40K miles on a gasket job.
Others will chime in from various directions, but If I had it to do
over again (and I will), I would try to go for new heads. Rebuilt old
ones seem to be asking for trouble. The spanish AMC heads with the
replacement valves that gowesty and others sell seem to be the ticket,
but a lot of people report long-lived operation with the stock AMCs,
as if there may had been a bad run of the heads a few years back that
gave the a bad name. I've never used anything but original german
heads rebuilt, but I follow the head thread because I know the day is
coming when I have to decide...
Daughter's 91 has over 170K and an unknown repair record.
Jim
On Mon, Feb 8, 2010 at 5:53 PM, Sheilah Rogers <sheilah@sheilah.org> wrote:
> My limited understanding (based on a convo with my mechanic all too recently) is that the argument against using new heads (assuming AMC Spanish ones) is that they're a lower quality then the factory rebuild (which my van's currently sporting).
>
> Also, my mechanic seems to think that even when buying new ones, it's better to open them up and clean them out since sometimes they get gunk in them or whatever which leads to early problems: like what I'm dealing with now with two very leaky heads (~20%) on one cylinder after just a measly 40k miles.
>
> (Wow, I hope I said all that right amidst all you mechanics out there).
>
> Anyways, (if I did understand and convey this clearly) this is my mechanic's argument to NOT put in new heads and instead to rebuild my current heads (to the tune of $1550ish, which does not include the porting but does includes a high labor rate of $120 p/hour which I'm still not comfortable with either.)
>
> Fwiw...
>
> s.
>
>
>
> On Jan 28, 2010, at 4:10 AM, Ken Wilford wrote:
>
>> Aaron, unless the heads come off and have no cracks between the valves I
>> wouldn't bother to have them redone. That is just my opinion but I have
>> done, many, many of these jobs and never had one come back because of a
>> head problem in the course of 11 years. What I would recommend is
>> replacing the heads with new ones. The new ones are $475 each plus you
>> would also need an engine gasket kit for $149. So you are looking at
>> around $1099 in parts but you wouldn't have to pay for any of the
>> machine work that they are quoting you since the new heads would also
>> have new stud holes for the exhaust to attach to. I would include my
>> step by step head gasket installation guide and you could do the work
>> yourself and save that money. It is not a difficult job to do yourself
>> as long as you go step by step you should not have a problem.
>>
>> Reusing old heads can cause two problems. The first is that the cracks
>> between the valves can get bigger once the old heads are put back on.
>> This can lead to combustion gases getting up into the coolant and then
>> you have to do the whole job over. The other problem is that the
>> original VW heads had a weak spot near one of the head stud holes. When
>> you retorque an old head there is a good possibility that the head will
>> crack externally near the head stud hole. Now you will think you have a
>> leaky head nut but it is actually a crack and will require you to
>> replace that head anyway. Do you see why I use new heads. They come
>> ready to install with new valves and springs.
>>
>> Let me know if I can help you further,
>> Ken Wilford
>> John 3:16
>> www.vanagain.com
>>
>>
>> Aaron wrote:
>>> I just wanted to check in and see what people here would recommend. Last week I wrote about some rusty exhaust issues and was going to replace the exhaust while replacing a waterpump. Well, that all went fairly well. I ended up getting all exhaust studs out - except for one. I don't think it's drillable in the engine and would require the head to be removed (according to the local shop). The engine has the exhaust removed, the cooling system drained, a new waterpump on, new thermostat, etc.
>>>
>>> So, with a head that has to come off, and an engine that has lower compression (between 118 and 130) I wonder if this wouldn't be a great time to just have the heads rebuilt. I'd be having a shop do it as I'm sure that I would end up with a mess and don't have the time or experience to do it. The quote to do both heads is $750 + labor drilling out the stud + ~$300 for the machining of the heads + misc. parts. Is the $750 in labor an appropriate # for just removing and replacing the heads?
>>>
>>> I'm not really excited about spending a lot of money when the headgaskets aren't leaking, the engine runs well - just a little tired. So, If anyone has any opinions, ideas, or alternatives, I would love to hear what you think.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Aaron
>>>
>>>
>
> ____________________________
> Sheilah Rogers, L.Ac.
> http://sheilah.org
> tel: 415/ 730-4144
>
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