Date:         Fri, 12 Mar 2010 08:38:42 -0800
Reply-To:     mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         mark drillock <mdrillock@COX.NET>
Subject:      Re: size of nut (bolt?) on crankcase pulley?
Comments: To: Gerald Masar <azsun99@EARTHLINK.NET>
In-Reply-To:  <115EF564E0B44545BE37222D9DD70333@emachine7af6b9>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

You don't need to turn the engine. Simply remove the 13mm nut that holds
the dizzy clamp down to the block and swap the dizzy with clamp attached
but undisturbed. This way the timing of that dizzy won't change.

With the cap off the dizzy you can see which way the rotor points on
each engine in their current position. Make sure the rotor of the "new"
dizzy points the same as the one removed, as you push the dizzy down
into the hole. Make sure the dizzy is COMPLETELY seated down into place
and then put the 13mm nut back. Check by trying to spin the rotor with
the dizzy bolted in. It should wiggle a little but not turn.

Mark

Gerald Masar wrote:
> In my never-ending quest to fix "cranks-won't-start" issue on my '88 Westy,
> I am going to swap distributor (with Hall sender intact) from my '90 so I need
> to be able to line things up. I can turn it with a "spanner" or Crescent wrench,
> but proper size socket would be better.
> Is it pretty straight-forward if I follow the instructions in Bentley&  Haynes re
> lining up the mark on the pulley and the rotor pointing toward #1?
> Thanks for any additional help anyone can provide and of course, thanks for
> all previous suggestions.
> I don't want to screw up, and end up with TWO non-running Westys. There's
> nothing left in the barn but shank's mares.
> I have swapped ECU's, since that was easier, and still no start.
>
> Jerry
>