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Date:         Fri, 12 Mar 2010 10:25:03 -0800
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: size of nut (bolt?) on crankcase pulley?
Comments: To: Gerald Masar <azsun99@EARTHLINK.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=original

Most conveniently you can't put the distributor in wrong in a waterboxer vanagon engine.

I am sure there are ways to screw it up of course, but basically ...the distributor drive is offset to one side a little, so distributor only goes in one way. It's smarter/safer to position it to # 1 TDC , but you don't have to.

all I do is note where the rotor is pointing .........and put the other dist in rotor pointing about the same place. couple of tips- the distributor can feel like it's 'down and in' 'sort of' ....the wrong way, but the right way, it definitely goes down in all the way .....there's a shoulder on the dist body where it meets the hold-down clamp. Must make sure it's well seated there.

for keeping the basic timing the same.. if it'll come out that way, don't loosen the timing adjusting part of the clamp. Leave that tight and remove the 13mm hex nut on the block that holds down the clamp...that way timing isn't changed R & Ring the distributor. If you have to undo the timing clamp adjusting part ( 10 mm hex nut ) just note first, where the distributor body is , relative to everything else, so you start with pretty close to the right timing.

also...for just getting ignition happening ... I test the first with distributor in my hands, and plugged in, and turn the dist with my fingers . always feels good when you see that spark jump ( testing for big spark from coil wire to ground ) and you hear the fuel pump run ... then ( as long as the ecu is firing the injectors - use a NOID light for testing that ) you know it's going to run .... as long as there's good fuel pressure anyway. you get those four- ignition, NOID light flashing, fuel pump running, and fuel pressure - it 'has' to run.

I like having a fuel pressure on them if things are really mysterious . I have been 'tricked' once or twice... fuel pump was running, but due to low fuel or restricted fuel pick up ...there still wasn't fuel pressure.

have fun ! Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gerald Masar" <azsun99@EARTHLINK.NET> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Friday, March 12, 2010 8:22 AM Subject: size of nut (bolt?) on crankcase pulley?

In my never-ending quest to fix "cranks-won't-start" issue on my '88 Westy, I am going to swap distributor (with Hall sender intact) from my '90 so I need to be able to line things up. I can turn it with a "spanner" or Crescent wrench, but proper size socket would be better. Is it pretty straight-forward if I follow the instructions in Bentley & Haynes re lining up the mark on the pulley and the rotor pointing toward #1? Thanks for any additional help anyone can provide and of course, thanks for all previous suggestions. I don't want to screw up, and end up with TWO non-running Westys. There's nothing left in the barn but shank's mares. I have swapped ECU's, since that was easier, and still no start.

Jerry


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