Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 23:09:29 -0700
Reply-To: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Proper Brake Pedal Feel/Travel?
In-Reply-To: <c4e7c5f91003232250g2f2c97ecxc0dc7e94e47aba6d@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Damn, I'm up to my eyeballs right now what with the Subaru install and uh,
work or I'd come on over there!
Pedal goes down to where - floor or ?
Kinda sounds like your booster isn't.
I'm pretty sure Mark posted on boosters recently - you might do a quick scan
of the Archives...
On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 10:50 PM, neil n <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> On 3/23/10, Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > You drove my '84 and used the brakes, no? On any car, the pedal should
> NEVER
> > bottom out - you have a serious problem there neighbour!
>
>
> Yes I drove it thanks, but not enough to recall pedal feel. I do know
> that your brakes "grabbed" better. Like less effort, more positive
> braking feel.
>
> Ok. Read your email. Took it out for a spin.
>
>
> > Does the pedal 'pump up'? i.e., if you mash it repeatedly does the
> travel
> > shorten/pedal become firmer as air in the system compresses?
> > Otherwise you are having a hydraulic pressure loss which is usually a
> master
> > cylinder problem.
>
>
> Not really. Maybe a **little** firmer + higher pedal. Repeated
> pushing, I hear the booster, but pushing fairly hard, pedal will go
> down until I hear/feel a subtle "thud" as pedal stops.
>
> Feels like air in system but maybe MC is faulty. Should be ok as was
> new a few years/low KM"s ago but .... <shrugs>
>
> Though I'm too precautious about not setting shoes too "tight" drum,
> they should be ok. i.e. engine running, standing on brakes, set
> e-brake, pedal stays same height.
>
>
> > When you start the motor with your foot on the brake pedal after having
> > pumped it a couple of times, does the pedal push back up?
>
>
> No. Pump it a few times, hold pedal down, start, pedal sinks a little.
>
> Help much appreciated,
>
> Neil.
>
>
>
> > Concerned in Crescent Beach
> >
> > On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 8:54 PM, neil n <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Hi all.
> >>
> >> I've owned one Vanagon. I know what an outright "wrong" pedal feels
> >> like but not what a proper Vanagon brake pedal feels like. Like from
> >> 0-10, 2 -3 = normal driving pedal pressure, 10 = total stain yer pants
> >> panic stop pressure, pushed at level 7, my pedal eventually stops
> >> against what I assume is metal. Brakes fine otherwise. I've done lots
> >> of work on them (* below)
> >>
> >> Does this mean air in system? Should a good pedal NEVER bottom out?
> >> Like pushed to 10, should it feel like it's up against something solid
> >> but not bottoming out against a stop of some kind?
> >>
> >> To ensure air not the culprit, I pressure bled them. (finally built a
> >> pressure bleeder. Used one-man valve before). Pressurizing reservoir
> >> with air to 12 PSI, I saw a steady stream from all bleeders, NO
> >> bubbles, no change in pedal feel over previous method. Of note, fronts
> >> bled noticeably faster. Used ~ 3/4 litre.
> >>
> >> In archives, these caught my eye: Rear wheel cylinder position (early
> >> MY) and brake switch(s) air bound. (MC replacement)
> >>
> >> Again no point of reference, but for some time it's seemed that my
> >> pedal requires slightly more than normal pressure required to activate
> >> brake lights.
> >>
> >> I replaced MC not long after buying Westy. I don't recal bleeding the
> >> switch. How is this done? Likely that info is in archives.
> >>
> >> It drives with no *real* issues. I just want to be sure there's NO air
> >> in system.
> >>
> >> Thanks for taking time to read.
> >>
> >> Neil.
> >>
> >>
> >> * AFAIK, only parts not replaced over last few years: hard lines from
> >> MC to calipers. Proportioning valve. All replaced parts still ok.
> >>
> >> Over last few years (calipers + related not long ago)
> >>
> >> - Booster, (check valve too IIRC) pedal cluster rebuilt, MC. Checked
> >> push rod spec.
> >> - Flex hoses, calipers, pads, hardware, rotors/bearings
> >> - Drums, shoes (Raybestos deluxe) hardware, cylinders. From prop.
> >> valve to rear, all steel and flex lines
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
> >>
> >> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
> >>
> >>
> >>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Jake
> >
> > 1984 Vanagon GL
> > 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
> >
> > Crescent Beach, BC
> >
> > www.thebassspa.com
> > www.crescentbeachguitar.com
> > http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
> >
>
>
> --
> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
>
> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>
--
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
Crescent Beach, BC
www.thebassspa.com
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
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