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Date:         Sat, 27 Mar 2010 19:06:39 -0400
Reply-To:     John Meeks <vanagon@GMAIL.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         John Meeks <vanagon@GMAIL.COM>
Subject:      Re: Brake Proportioning Valve: Traps Air?
Comments: To: neil n <musomuso@gmail.com>
In-Reply-To:  <c4e7c5f91003271520v775caa8fw4cc2e240974d8ae3@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 6:20 PM, neil n <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes! Those rear bits are a somewhat gnarly job. > > FWIW re: rear flex lines and steel lines, I did a write up after > tackling mine. The long line was done not long after that. > > http://sites.google.com/site/tubaneil2/rearbrakeflexhosereplacement > > A thought I had toward a rusty hard line, is getting at the spot > between nut and line with a small pic. Break the surface of the crud > remove what you can, then spray fav penetrating fluid. Of course, if > they're that rusted, well, you know. Might be time for a new line(s). >

Nice write up and pix Neil.

FWIW When I replaced all my hard and flex brake lines I used a nickel/copper alloy line (both Carquest and Cunifer brand). I started the job pre-bending the new line to match the section I had just removed but soon found it easier to measure the length of the old section with a piece of wire, cutting and flaring the new line then bending the new line in place. No more slightly off angles or do-overs. The Cunifer is much easier to bend than steel and will not rust.

Congrats on getting yours done. That's a job that's nice to have behind you!

John Meeks '91 Multivan Northern Michigan

Vanagon Rescue Squad <http://www.vanagonauts.com/Vanagon_Rescue_Squad74.htm>


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