Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 11:16:08 -0700
Reply-To: Robert Fisher <garciasghostvw@GMAIL.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Robert Fisher <garciasghostvw@GMAIL.COM>
Subject: Re: Auto tranny lost 3rd gear
In-Reply-To: <028501cade24$150553a0$3f0ffae0$@net>
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--snip-
If its like most other auto trannys this means a total rebuild because you
have to unload everything else to get to 3rd gear.
--snip--
It is pretty much buried in the middle, but more to the point I think that
if it's worn out, the rest of it is too, or it's about to be.
--snip--
Seems expensive but its far cheaper than a rebuild because you lost high
gear - caused by low fluid - because of a leak.
--snip--
There's a chance she lost third because his valve body is dirty/clogged (or
the separation plate is badly worn), or the governor drive broke or
something... there aren't really much in the way of seals in the thing
unless you include the pistons in that; it seems that damaged pistons often
come with very worn plates. I don't know that it'd be much cheaper to break
the thing down and service one part. Having been in there I don't think I'd
bother unless I knew for a fact that the rest of it was in really good
condition; If I was going to go through all the trouble of getting it out,
separating it from the diff and getting into it I'd just rebuild the thing
while I was at it, probably replace the torque converter too.
You (Rob) can call Ken at German Transaxle and he should be able to give you
a shipping quote and explain their rebuild process (which includes
reconditioning the valve body, which you really can't do at home and you
might not get from a local shop). In fact I think before I made a decision I
would pull the valve body, disassemble, clean and inspect it and decide
based on that how to proceed. Alternately; you can send GT the valve body
for reconditioning if it needs it and rebuild the tranny yourself.
If you decide to do the valve body you need a clean, well lit area without
distractions; work on one section at a time and do the whole thing at one
shot. Be very careful of the little balls; it'd be easy to lose one.
It's not really the kind of thing where you want to stop in the middle and
come back to it. I also took pictures of each move I made. The diagrams in
the Bentley are pretty good, but your pictures will make more sense to you.
I used carb cleaner, a pick, some lint-free shop cloths, some sheet plastic
and tranny assemble lube (but you can just use ATF).
To answer your question; I got my rebuild kit locally. I wound up spending
more but the guy was answering my numerous questions so I didn't mind so
much compensating him for that. Van-Again (Ken, a list vendor at
www.vanagain.com ) has a kit (010398007KIT*) but as you can see you'd still
need the things he lists there that aren't in his kit.
www.vanagonparts.com had everything necessary at the time I bought the stuff
to do mine; I have attached a .jpg with the list and part numbers they sent
me at the time (the list will strip that for everyone else), however I
assume the prices will be very different as it was five years ago. You can
call or email them to get current prices.
I bought the transmission assembly lube, a manual (which I found I didn't
really need vs. the Bentley, but it was nice to be able to compare) and some
misc. parts from http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/ . You can use ATF
(and in fact you have to soak the plates in it before assembly, so you'll
want some fresh/clean before starting), but the lube doesn't drip and helps
some things stick together, which is nice when you need it.
You should change the differential fluid while you're at it. Make sure you
can get the 17mm fill plug out before you pull the pan. I wouldn't bother
getting the very expensive diff pan gasket; I used "The Right Stuff" (a
gasket maker/RTV type of thing I got at Napa).
I'd spend a little more money and replace the fluids with synthetics when
you put it back in.
Cya,
Robert
