Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 15:59:22 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: stainless steel coolant pipes
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="utf-8"; reply-type=original
Hi,
my 'normal' Good Stuff is Prestone Extended Life anti-frz.
A parts store counterman once told me a-frz is really only made by a few
compannies in the US ..and even when you get a slightly off-brand, you are
getting basically good stuff.
I got some "Peak" brand recently ...
very pale color .....didn't seem to 'look' like 'real good a-frz' - that
bright green. ....but might be just fine ..
particularily when changed regularily.
btw about stainless in cooling systems ..
waterboxxer thermostats are stainless steel - they don't have a problem.
I have always used tap water.
I have never lived where the water is hard.
Just west coast tap water.
I think the pre-mix is a louysy way to buy it becaue ...it's not half the
price of the 100 % real juice.
The only reason to get that stuff is so it's in your trunk and it's alreayd
50/50.
Just get two jugs of the real stuff, and when is empty, use the two jugs to
make 2 gallons of 50/50.
I'm not cheap, but I don't like wasting money.
re the 'conveninece' ..partially that was realtive to the Blue Stuff from VW
....as much as $ 19 per gallon ..
and not many places to get it.
So my standard, and readily avialble and cdnvenient juice is Prestone
Exteneded Life.
I also believe that HOW you use any part or products is Almost More
Important than what actual product you use...
almost. Gotta use qualtiy parts and materials of course.
I am just very workmanship focused ,
like I think I can do a much better job with a medium grade product
installing it carefully, fussing over the entire cooling system ..
adding my little trick additive ....making sure it's well bled, ...
do a little 'psychic healing' here and there ....cleaning things, treating
rust ...
putting on better hose clamps ...whatever ...
- better than some one doing what I call 'slam dunk' work with super
expensive anti-frz , say.
Don't get me started ...lol
I think sometimes people Loose Ground doing a poor job with fancy stuff,
and that doing a extra thorough stellar job with medium grade stuff will
produce a better result by far, not that anti-frz is a good example of
something that varies a lot in quality.
I keep saying, it's not 'the parts' ....it's the workmanship.
that is where you get great results.
I have, in the 70's, refreeshed an engine in the woods with barely more
than sandpaper and WD-40. That was like 10 hours psychic healing and work,
cleaning, picking the best parts from two engines etc. .. ...30 bucks in
parts. Worked out great too - made one good engine out of two Ford inline
sixes and it promptly twisted off a tired u-joint. lol.
trying not to go off on a tangent here too far ..
but the Psychic Healing affect...really getting your brain in there on the
tiniest details...
'massaging' things to health .....I really believe in that.
Not that worn out parts don't need to be replaced....they do ..
but it is not just installing the part.
I would even say 'installing the part' is almost incidental to the process
of making cars and vans healthy.
That is how much I believe it is largely in extra careful workmanship, and
not in the parts themselves per se.
and the poor workmanship I see all the time, drives me nuts.
For sure ...if you get in on a project that was just worked on and the
car/van is not working right ..
you go right to the most recent work. There's a high probability that's
where you will find the problem.
Any notion of 'oh it can't be that, that was just replaced';.........
is backwards ....that's where the problem is very likely to be.
anyway, do good careful work. It pays off. And it's very rewarding.
nice to read your good words again,
Scott
www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <mcneely4@cox.net>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>; "Scott Daniel - Turbovans"
<scottdaniel@turbovans.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: Re: stainless steel coolant pipes
> Scott, what do you use? The Zerex and Prestone long life stuff costs
> about $12/gallon hereabouts. A gallon of distilled water is less than a
> buck. I have seen cheaper (maybe $10/gallon), but only Peak and various
> house brands, none of which list whether or not they are phosphate free.
> How is whatever you are using more convenient? Now, Prestone sells premix
> at about $10, but then one is paying for half water, which seems foolish
> just to avoid mixing it oneself. Thanks for all you do on the list. DMc
>
> ---- Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>> I haven't see anything to indicate really, that the official phosphate
>> free
>> is any better than the mix I use, is why.
>>
>> plus it's ( convenient and sometimes less expensive ) to use
>> conventional
>> high quality anti-frz .
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Dave Mcneely" <mcneely4@COX.NET>
>> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>> Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 12:04 PM
>> Subject: Re: stainless steel coolant pipes
>>
>>
>> > Why not just use a phosphate-free antifreeze as recommended? Both
>> > Zerex
>> > and Prestone long-life antifreezes are now phosphate-free, as is the
>> > original VW stuff if one wants to pay for it. Corrosion problems seem,
>> > from all I've read and heard, to be attributed specifically to
>> > phosphate
>> > in the formulation. VW is certainly not the only multi-metal system on
>> > the road, either. DMc
>> >
>> > ---- Gary Bawden <goldfieldgary@GMAIL.COM> wrote:
>> >> This issue keeps coming up - - why not just install a coolant filter
>> >> as used on commercial and industrial engines, they contain a
>> >> sacrificial anode (magnesium, I think). Can't hurt, might give a
>> >> feeling of reassurance to those who imagine their coolant passages,
>> >> radiators, etc., rotting away mile by mile. :^)
>> >>
>> >> Gary
>> >>
>> >> >
>> >> > Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 06:08:21 -0700
>> >> > From: Don Hanson <dhanson928@GMAIL.COM>
>> >> > Subject: Re: stainless steel coolant pipes
>> >> >
>> >> > On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 4:35 AM, Andrew Grebneff
>> >> > <goose1047@gmail.com>
>> >> > wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> >> On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 11:25 PM, Ken Wilford <kenwilfy@comcast.net>
>> >> >> wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> > OK, let's think about this in a logical manner. The original
>> >> >> > 1.9l
>> >> >> Vanagons
>> >> >> > had plain steel pipes. The piston liners inside the engine are
>> >> >> > cast
>> >> >> > iron
>> >> >> > with steel studs holding the heads on. Any way you look at it
>> >> >> > the
>> >> >> > van
>> >> >> > is
>> >> >> a
>> >> >> > multi-metal soup.
>> >> >> >
>> >> >>
>> >> >> ...hence the head-corrosion problem?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I guess it doesn't really make any difference which antifreeze you
>> >> >> use, so
>> >> >> long as you actually use the stuff.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> --
>> >> >> Regards
>> >> >> Andrew Grebneff
>> >> >>
>> >> >
>> >> > That is exactly why the heads do leak on this era German
>> >> > water-pumper
>> >> > engines.. Heat+ dissimilar metals+a conductive solution to connect
>> >> > it
>> >> > all
>> >> > together=a recipe for corrosion. The 993 Porsche motors have the
>> >> > same
>> >> > problems as a WBX. Change away with your antifreeze/coolant
>> >> > mix...your
>> >> > motor is still attacking itself.still it is probably the best thing
>> >> > to
>> >> > keep
>> >> > the fresh coolant in there.
>> >> >
>> >> > I wonder if anyone has ever experimented with installing
>> >> > sacrificial
>> >> > anodes like are used in the marine world? A couple of small bits of
>> >> > zinc
>> >> > somewhere accessible in the coolant circulation system might
>> >> > mitigate
>> >> > the
>> >> > corrosion problems you WBX owners encounter in the head area?
>> >> >
>> >> > Don Hanson
>> >> >
>> >> > ------------------------------
>> >
>> > --
>> > David McNeely
>>
>
> --
> David McNeely
| 
