Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 21:56:56 -0700
Reply-To: Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Alistair Bell <albell@SHAW.CA>
Subject: Re: Material to fill the seams
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP8914DB2809A8E9C7B227FF90E40@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
do a search on the samba, lots of opinions, old terry Kay's opinion I
think hold water, he writes (excerpts from this thread http://
www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?
t=240691&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=terry+kay)
> Here's the way I found to permanently stop the seam rust issue.
>
> Mask off the seams---right to either edge.
> Get ahold of a spot sand blaster with a convex tip on it.
>
> Run the sandblaster right down the seam sealer.
> It'll remove all of the rust/ old sealer clean and comlete with no
> damage to either side of the seams.
>
> Now , go to any Auto Body supply store-- purchase some 3-M body
> panel adhesive.
>
> Your gonna need the gun with it too.
>
> Re-mask the seams tight, and run a bead of the body panel adhesive
> down each seam.
>
> Let it cure overnight, & pull the tape.
>
> The body panel adhesive is bullet proof, displaces moisture, and
> your all done but the refinishing of the seams.
>
> Mask them again and either spray the paint on , or run a brush with
> the right color on it.
> Spraying the paint on will give you a factory , original look.
>
> This seam repair approach will outlast the Van.
>
> Grinding the old seam sealer / rust out is too aggresive, and will
> more than likely damage more than your repairing.
>
> The spot sand blasting will get it all in 1/4 of the time.
and then a response:
> .
> .
>
> hmm TK last time you then suggested
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?
> t=215705&highlight=coat+zinc+chromate
> I then layed a coat of zinc chromate, seif etching primer on the
> bonded area's.
> Let it sit overnight & scuff it with 180.
>
> Over the top of than I used Dupont Uro Prime with a flex agent in it.
> It acts as a plastic bag primer sealer over the repaired area's.
>
> The benifit of using this primer sealer is that it isn't a talic
> based product
> It's urethane.
> It won't suck up any moistue, it's flexable, and chip resistant.
and Terry replied:
> Your 100% correct.
> I gave an abreviated version of the absolute correct way of getting
> the job done.
> How many guys would actually seek out Vari Prime, alllow it to it
> 12 hours, scuff that down, seam seal the area with body panel
> adhesive, wait another 8 --10 hours for that to cure, and then go
> looking for the $89.00 a quart Uro Prime that sets up overnight?
>
> Not too many.
>
> Besides the poster mentioned he was in a hurry anyway--was leaving
> this coming Friday--no time.
and further, Terry wrote:
> <<<queston, what is the advantage of using 3M body panel adhesive
> over a traditional 3M seam sealer?>>
>
> The seam sealer will crack, the body panel adhesive won't---
> Besides the body panel adhesive dispaces moisture, the seam sealer
> absorbs it.
>
On 20-May-10, at 7:53 PM, Gilles H Turmel wrote:
Hi anybody,
What material did you use to fill the seams? Can't seem to find the
right stuff.
Best regards.
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