Date:         Tue, 25 May 2010 16:48:18 -0700
Reply-To:     Marc Sayer <marcsayer@HUGHES.NET>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Marc Sayer <marcsayer@HUGHES.NET>
Subject:      Re: Good types of drive-on lift ramps?
In-Reply-To:  <0EAB81F0-83A3-4E6C-91C1-66E80782135C@dragonhome.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Cheap and relatively easy to pour a  concrete slab that is level and can
support the weight of your Vanagon (4" is recommended but you can
probably go 3"  or even 2" if you have to, w/wire reinforcement or
rebar). Mostly all it takes is time and sweat. In fact you can make a
level work area for less than $100. Of course for that you aren't going
to get a full slab, just 4 small slabs, one for each tire. But you can
make sure they're level and fill in around them with 3/4 minus gravel ,
compacted well. Cover it all with visqueen before you pull on to it, and
you have a clean, dry, relatively dust free place to work that is
reasonably comfortable no less.

The big costs will be the mix. You will need around 2 cu. yards (you
might get a short load delivered pretty cheap if you can wait until
someone in your area is getting concrete poured, or you can get those 80
lb bags from your local megamart). And rental on tools, including a
mixer. You can save on the mixer if you are really butch and have lots
of help, but personally, I'd spring for the mixer (heck I broke down and
bought one from HF and it was worth every penny, once you have one, you
find yourself doing all sorts of concrete jobs you thought were beyond
you). Prep is the key to success (as in most things). Get the site flat,
smooth and well compacted before you lay your forms, that will make the
whole job a lot easier and quicker. Put down a good 4" or more of 3/4
minus gravel or crusher. Dampen it and compact it well, then let it dry.
This will set up hard and give you a good foundation for the concrete.
You can do it all in a weekend even if you are working by yourself. Of
course the more help you have the less you will beat yourself up. It
doesn't have to be pretty, and it doesn't have to be designed to last
1000 years, just to hold up your car now and then for the next few
years. If I were on a really tight budget and faced with choosing
between working on a sloping gravel/dirt driveway, or working on a
level  2" thick rebar reinforced slab, I'd go with the slab myself, even
though the 2" really is too thin. I'd just do good prep work and know
the slab is just for repairs, not for constant parking, and that it
won't last as long as a good 4" slab would. I have worked on cars on a
2" slab before. One didn't even have reinforcement. But the cars were
MGs and Datsuns which are a lot lighter than a Vanagon.

I guess what I am trying to say is that pouring a concrete slab is not
something you have to pay someone to do (though it's always nice when
you can just pay somebody to do it for you). It's no more difficult than
working on a car, in fact it many cases it requires less skills. It can
be tiring and physically demanding, but it is not difficult. And it is
not as costly as you may think.

Rowan Tipton wrote:
>   I don't have a level slab or the money to get one so I
> can't
> work on a level place.

--

Marc Sayer
Journalist, Photographer, Dog Trainer (APDT member #062956)
Board member - Western States Great Dane Rescue Association
Director of Operations&  Training - Deaf Dane Rescue Inc.
Oakridge, OR USA

My Homepage - http://gracieland.org
Deaf Dane Rescue  - http://deafdane.org
White Danes Yahoo Group - http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/whitedanes
Western States Great Dane Rescue Association - http://wsgdra.org
RescueWatchdogs - http://rescuewatchdogs.org
Association of Pet Dog Trainers - http://APDT.com