Date:         Fri, 4 Jun 2010 12:15:26 -0700
Reply-To:     Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From:         Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject:      Re: More Clutch Less Ramps
Comments: To: kgrotz@CRAFTECH.COM
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
              reply-type=original

hi Kurt,
at 90 bucks..
that would have to be a 'rebuilt' flywheel I would think - a resufaced
cleaned up one, perhaps rebalanced..
is my guess.
or if really NEW .....then made in an Asian country known for cheap stuff
perhaps.

a NEW vanagon flywheel is a lot more that that - a new german OE  genuine VW
one is many hundreds last I checked.

Having your local machine shop resurface one is around 35 bucks.
The 90 dollar deal does sound like it might be right for you though - if
it's genuinely a good part.

the felt dust seal.
is an avaialbe new part.
the ring that retains it is not.
I often find them missing from waterboxer flywheels.

if the company that sells the 90 dollar ones was smart,
they would come with a diesel vanagon pilot seal with included rubber lip
type dust seal, and a bit of material machined away in the flywheel to
accomodate the slightly longer DV pilot bearing.

You want GL-4 gear oil.
I have some NAPA gear oil, 85W90 - claims to meet GL 3, 4, and 5
requirements.
MT-90 Redline is the common synthetic GL-4 that people use.
I add Prolong transmission treatment to it.  I like that combo a lot.

pilot and TOB are the only two bearins in the clutch system.
Lube the crosshaft bushings thoroughly until it pivots very nicely in the
bell housing.

and lube all the pivot points on the crossshaft..where the TOB rides, etc.
Lube the Guide Tube the TOB slides on.

*if there is one area where I see poor workmanship a LOT ...
it's the clutch.

I will say this a million times - it's not the Parts, it's the Workmanship.

( and I bet I can make a longer lasting clutch working in the woods using
used parts but very detailed and good Workmanship than many people can in
professional shops even, with new parts - I exaggerate  of course...but not
that much actually.  Honest, most work I see is short or sloppy in various
ways.
but believe, me, it is NOT 'installing the parts' ....that's  INCIDENTAL
even, to the actual job. It is in the thorough and meticulous workmanship -
that's where you get your results, and your long lasting results.  )

I use 'black slimy' ....black moly grease on the crossshaft pivot points,
and the guide tube - notice that groove inside the TOB  ? -that's to hold
grease, I put some in that groove, and put a little on the guide tube for
the TOB>
and spray sythetic grease where it pivots in the bell housing.
and a good synthetic general purpose grease on the pilot bearing, and the
tiniest dab on the clutch disc splines.
In case you haven't picked up on it yet, I Usually see too dryly assembled
clutch systems - chronically.

and always bleed the clutch hydrualics while you're working on the clutch
too.

would like to know more details on that 90 dollar flywheel.
got a link ?
just curious. I still have half a dozen good waterboxer flywheels.
and that little ring that retains the felt dust seal...
save everyone of those you find ...that's the rare part. 2/3's of them are
under machine shops workbenches.

Scott
www.turbovans.com



----- Original Message -----
From: "Kurt Grotz" <kgrotz@CRAFTECH.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 5:34 AM
Subject: More Clutch Less Ramps


> List -
>
> Tomorrow I reassemble - Vanagon Gods willing.  I have a couple lose ends.
>
> 1.  For those that saw my flywheel in previous post, recommended was
> everything from cleaning - to machining.  Or should I just pick up a new
> one?  $90 doesn't seem that bad.  Would cost that much to machine I am
> thinking- let alone finding a shop to do it.  I would have new clutch and
> flywheel then.
>
> 2.  THe felt dust cap.  Can't seem to find at Bus Depot site.  Can I
> fabricate one?  How do you install?  DOes it go on backside of flywheel?
>
> 3.  Gear oil?  Can I use the modern #4 or do I have to find the #3.  I
> think I am right on the numbers.  Some say the new stuff frys all the
> brass in the gearbox.  Others say the newer stuff is fine.
>
> 4.  Bearings?  Any more than the pilot and throw-out?