Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 13:21:21 -0700
Reply-To: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Sender: Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
From: Scott Daniel - Turbovans <scottdaniel@TURBOVANS.COM>
Subject: Re: Rich Running Chilly 1.9l WBX
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
re
Once the bolts are removed, the t-stat housing *with the t-stat
installed* *will not clear the exhaust header*
yep , a real gotcha there.
'sometimes' the t-stat cover will clear the exhaust pipes with water pump
still in place...
and sometimes you can grind a tiny bit of material off the t-stat cover so
it will go in and out without moving the water pump.
on ALL cooling system bolts I strongly recommend something on the threads to
prevent corrosion, and make them come out easily in a few years.
And ..those two long bolts that go through the w pump housing, those are
notorious for getting stuck in their too-small bores...
so use lots of good anti-seize there, and ream out the long holes nicely so
the bolts, don't get stuck.
on the treads, what works perfectly for me is Permatx High Tach gasket
sealer ..
this stuff prevents corrosion of the treads, and help the botl stick in the
threaded hole nicely too...
yet, comes part nicely 8 years later.
drives me totally nuts to see ANY bolts or threaded fasteneris put together
dry on an water pumps, water pump housings, t-stat covers etc...
and spark plugs ....same thing.
No spart plug should ever be installed with dry threads. Aluminum anti-seize
compound is easy to find. The better copper type costs more an is harder to
find ....but man, no dry threads anywhwere, with some exceptions.
As usally *so much* Grief could be prevented with *so little* extra effort !
that's the kind of thing I am talking about when I keep harping on
'workmanship.' 'most car repair' is horribly lacking in really good
workmanship - based on what I constantly see on cars and vanagons. It's a
joke even, now poory so many things are done and asembled commonly.
Scott
www.turbovans.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "C B" <cunegonde.van.westfalia@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: Rich Running Chilly 1.9l WBX
> Hopefully I have found the culprit, a thermostat both failed and
> incorrect to begin with.
>
> Dennis gave me a precise description of the *correct*, plain 87 C
> t-stat, which *no bypasses or relief valves* (t-stats that do are for
> other Audi/VW applications, not Vanagons). Mine, which I unwittingly
> installed after a waterpump replacement soon after purchasing the
> camper, has a small ball-valve bypass, which has failed open. This
> explains why Cunegonde usually ran cool, and then below operating
> temperature with the failed t-stat. I expect her to run warmer now
> (report after test drive).
>
> TECHNICAL NOTES
> Even with the rear of the van up on stands, at least 2 gallons of
> coolant will need to be drained from the overflow tank and engine
> compartment cooling pipes
> I used a 5-gallon tub to drain and catch coolant.
> The t-stat housing is fastened to the waterpump with 2 long 10mm bolts.
> Work from underneath for the t-stat housing bolts, above for the
> waterpump bolts.
> The front bolt can barely be accessed with a 10mm deep socket,
> preferably with the oil filter removed
> The rear bolt only fits a regular socket or flat closed ratchet
> Once the bolts are removed, the t-stat housing *with the t-stat
> installed* *will not clear the exhaust header*
> Don't forget to lube the o-ring (perhaps with something water-based,
> ahem) and also the bolts (I used a touch of clean 10w-40)
> I ended up loosening the water pump to get the t-stat housing back on
> with the t-stat in place so as not to damage the t-stat O-ring
> And... re-fill and bleed the cooling system when all is back in place
>
> Total time, about 1.5 hours not including a second bleed.
>
>
>
>
> --
> Bretts
>
> 1983 1.9l WBX Ivory Westfalia "Cunegonde"
| 
